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Routes in Butcher Knife

?? TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bear Hug TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butcher Knife Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ecstatic Rapture TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grey Face Middle TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grey Face Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greyface Left or The Cave TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Left Hook TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantels, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,683 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matt Weisman on Nov 3, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This route is great.

It makes up for length with class as the climb itself is quite enjoyable. Easy climbing leads to hands with several holds within the crack.


Walk to the middle of the canyon and cross the stream to the obvious cliff, this crack lies in the center.


Four placements will suffice: a medium nut, 2-#2 Camalots and a #0.5 Camalot.


Keith Leaman  
Starting in 1968, through 1975, I led climbers from Perry Mansfield Boys Camp on Butcherknife Creek Rocks. First ascents in 1968. We also climbed many routes on peaks in the Mount Zirkle Wilderness in the late '60s and early '70s. We did many FAs on the cliffs above Gilpin Lake. Would like to hear from others of that era.

Keith Leaman Dec 29, 2011
Keith was an inspirational climber and leader for us young campers connecting to the wilderness and the vertical world. Doing first ascents with 12 year olds takes a lot of patience. Nov 25, 2013

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