[Hide Comment] The gear's really not too bad on this one. Small offset nuts work really well for the midsection of the climb, either HBs or Wild Country superlight rocks. C3s or hybrid aliens work well down low, and there are good tcu and nut placements later in the climb. A cam hook can be really useful to skip some of the marginal, fiddly nut placements.

Don't clip the rope to the fixed bashy after aiding on it. If you fall it will rip and that part of the climb probably won't go clean if the bashy is gone.

Also, a single rope rap with a 60 m rope will just get you to the ground from the rap station at the top of the crack (tie knots in the end). Nov 5, 2006

[Hide Comment] I thought the gear on this was easy, and straight forward. I carried 2 metolius offset cams (0-1,1-2) a set of peenuts, one small cam hook, and a standard rack from 00 metolius to .75 BD c4. perfect rack for this climb. Definitely fun! Jul 11, 2011

[Hide Comment] This climb is actually 2 pitches, sharing the same first pitch as Black peeler, but they diverge at the ramp. On P2, it is a pretty long reach from the last bolt to the bashie even though I was top stepping. Maybe the bashie was at the bottom of the crack before like it says in the description, but it is at least another foot higher than where I was expecting it considering that the bolts to get there can be ascended from the 2nd or 3rd steps. I had to top step and tie a quickdraw open to get the extra inches to reach the bashie and I was in directly to the last bolt. Maybe a top-step sub-step would have worked. This is a fun clean aid route.
Gear: small gear up to a #0.5 C4 for Peeler direct, and a #0.75 can be placed if doing P1 of Black Peeler to access the ramp and start of the route. Mastercams and small nuts worked well, offsets would have helped, cam hooks got their use, but no other body weight/hooks/peckers were necessary. Jul 9, 2012

[Hide Comment] I had to do the same as DrApnea - tied a quickdraw open and had to top step to clip the bashie. I was clipped in direct to the top bolt of the bolt ladder and I'm 6' 2". Once on the bashie, the rest of the climbing was pretty straightforward. I few trickier placements in the lower half, and the upper half ate up small cams, especially offsets. Didn't use one on this route today, but cam hooks would have worked well. Overall, a really fun aid route.

Gear placed: Micro brass offset, HB #5 brass offset, DMM walnut #2, #5, Metolius offset master cams 00/0, 0/1, 1/2, BD X4 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, BD C4 0.3 Sep 13, 2014

[Hide Comment] The first ascent was by Eric Eliason and Lenny Nelson, late 1960's Sep 17, 2017

[Hide Comment] A history of the P.D. Started in 1965 with Paul Anderson to heckle Ellsworth&Conrod. I returned in 69 with Dave Boyd. Dave was the responsible person for all the hard work on pitch two. Using old "Betons" ( a god awful wrapping of aluminum wire around a steel wire loop) rurps and tied off knifeblades he reached and established the bolt ladder. unfortunately dave's work took him out of town. after a delay Eric wanted to finsh the route, not knowing when dave was coming back, I agreed. Eric and I finished the route the in the fall of 1969 and dave never spoke to me again. Lenny Nelson S.L,C. 29 aug 2018 Aug 29, 2018

[Hide Comment] Ooooo, please please post a pic of a "Beton"! Aug 29, 2018

[Hide Comment] Zozo, see photo...of a Beton. In 1976, my friend Steve Aldous took a fall when this popped, It was placed in a ridiculously shallow little groove....can't believe it held on an earlier ascent. It was located just off of the ramp at the start of the bolt ladder....props to Dave Boyd for placing it! Maybe Lenny can explain how they're made! Aug 29, 2018

[Hide Comment] Still goes! 2 decent looking bashies after the bolts. Totems were bomb-diggity! Apr 6, 2019