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Chick Flick

5.10, Trad, 120 ft,  Avg: 2.4 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Optimator
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Nicely varied, Chick flick is 100 feet or so left of Lady Pillar. Begin at a right-facing corner and use the off-finger/tight hands crack to surmount the pillar (about 25 feet). Once on the pillar climb the left-facing corner and crack system for about 95 more feet. Right off the pillar the crack is off-width and gets progressively more narrow until the last 15 feet which are 0.75 camalot-sized.

Protection

0.5 camalot up to a # 5 camalot (old size). Doubles recommended from 0.5 to #3 camalots, and maybe three 0.75 camalots (I placed one at the bottom and two at the top).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] FA Josh Gross Nov 5, 2006
303scott
  5.10
[Hide Comment] We were a little confused by the description in the book and started on the pillar left of the corner in some choss. Nice varied route after the first 25 feet. I thought it protected well with 2 #4 C4s, no need for a 5. If the direct start goes at .10 it would be a great route at that grade. Nov 29, 2012
Derek Field
California
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Did the direct start on the right side of the bottom pillar, and found it to be consistent in difficulty with the rest of the route. This is an enduro pitch with lots of variety in both gear and technique. Double rack to BD #4 with a #5 for the offwidth off the ledge. The last 15 feet are absolutely not .75, more like .5 Oct 10, 2016