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Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Analysis Paralysis T M6
Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 Easy Snow PG13
Bullett T WI3 M6
Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow R
Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Englishman's Route M5-6
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T M5+
Left of Cleft M4 Steep Snow
Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13
North Face Direct M2-3 Steep Snow
Ricochet T M5-6 PG13
Slit, The T M5-6
Tyndall Gully Mod. Snow
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Snow, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,836 total · 21/month
Shared By: Kurt Johnson on Nov 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a fun way up Hallett, especially when covered with snow. The first section, the gully just left (south) of Emerald Lake is an enjoyable moderate snow climb or ski descent, and a good, though shorter, alternative to Flattop's famous couloirs on busy or south-facing heat-induced avalanche days.

If you decide to do the entire East Ridge, from the top of the gully head west just below the south-facing cliffs, encountering a few 4th class sections, until you get to the the middle of another snow gully (Chaos Couloir). Head up this couloir (similar climbing as the first one) and, from the top, make your way along the broad, low-angled east ridge toward the summit snowfield. Get out your ice axe again for this final short snow slope which takes you to the relatively snow-free summit.

Scramble northeast toward Tyndall Glacier and either descend that down Tyndall Gorge and back to Emerald Lake, or take the Flattop trail.

Protection

A good solo, but can be protected with pickets and/or a light rock rack.
The couloir south of Emerald Lake has a bit of gravel and rock at the bottom but good snow most of the way up. The traverse was pretty dicy with snow on it, so we roped up a couple of short sections when the exposure was bad. This part took us a lot longer than anticipated, so we downclimbed the Chaos Couloir which, after a day in the sun and then shade, had turned pretty hard. I'm not sure we were prepared to climb the top of Chaos Couloir though, it was pretty steep from what we saw at the bottom. It took us about 3 hours to get from Emerald Lake, up the couloir, and traverse to the Chaos Couloir. There were a few small avalanche crowns here by the way. Fun climb, traversing wasn't very fun, but it was great to be up high on Hallett on a beautiful day. Mar 9, 2015
MileHighMitch
Denver, CO
  4th Steep Snow
MileHighMitch   Denver, CO
  4th Steep Snow
Nice early wintery conditions on 11/22/14.... While the climb is rather moderate, it is also a fun as and interesting way to ascend mighty Hallett.... The trees on the arete overtop of the couloir create a snowtrap and are a likely place to trigger a wind slab. As always, be aware and travel smart whenever operating in the alpine.

  • **NOTE*** the "East Face Couloir" DOES NOT directly lead to Hallett's summit but rather a small arete that divides the Tyndall and Chaos Gorges a few hundred feet below the southeast face of Hallett.
Nov 22, 2014
Aaron Pence
Boulder, CO
Aaron Pence   Boulder, CO
I did this route on 6/14/09 and found the bottom to be completely melted out. I climbed a snow ramp just to the right of the main gully. Where the ramp ended, the snow in the main gully began. I left the Bear Lake lot at 6am, but later wished I'd hit snooze a bit less that morning. When I reached the top of the gully, which also happens to be the steepest section, the snow was already very soft, almost too soft to ascend. The top of the gully definitely sees sun from first light, and if you're gonna do a later season ascent of this great route, start earlier than I did.

One note on rating... I found the top of the gully to be borderline moderate/steep snow. I would say it's "moderate" if you pick your line carefully and wisely, but "steep" if you head at it directly. Jun 15, 2009

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