Type: Snow, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,617 total · 20/month
Shared By: Kurt Johnson on Nov 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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This is a fun way up Hallett, especially when covered with snow. The first section, the gully just left (south) of Emerald Lake is an enjoyable moderate snow climb or ski descent, and a good, though shorter, alternative to Flattop's famous couloirs on busy or south-facing heat-induced avalanche days.

If you decide to do the entire East Ridge, from the top of the gully head west just below the south-facing cliffs, encountering a few 4th Class sections, until you get to the the middle of another snow gully (Chaos Couloir). Head up this couloir (similar climbing as the first one) and, from the top, make your way along the broad, low-angled east ridge toward the summit snowfield. Get out your ice axe again for this final short snow slope which takes you to the relatively snow-free summit.

Scramble northeast toward Tyndall Glacier, and either descend that down Tyndall Gorge and back to Emerald Lake, or take the Flattop Trail.


A good solo, but can be protected with pickets and/or a light rock rack.