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Routes in Lord Of The Flies Wall

All Strung Out on Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Hands Might Hurt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beast, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Slabbath S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Conch, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Piggy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thumbelina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 55 total, 0/month
Shared By: Greg Parker on Nov 2, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Wild Boar climbs out the big roofs to the right of Piggy. Stick-clip the first 2 bolts.
Start a bit to the right of the bolt line and climb crimps up to a v-shaped undercling in the 1st roof. Match on the undercling (or you can cross through) and head straight left to get established by the 2nd bolt under the 2nd big roof. Big, punchy moves get you out the roofs onto the headwall where the climbing remains challenging.
The route is 3 stars when it's in its "clean" state. The holds under the roof have the tendency to get dirty. The direct start has yet to be done....

Protection

8 bolts, closed cold shut anchors

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