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Routes in Lord Of The Flies Wall

All Strung Out on Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Hands Might Hurt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beast, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Slabbath S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Conch, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Piggy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thumbelina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Boar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 1,580 total, 12/month
Shared By: Greg Parker on Nov 1, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This blank looking route climbs the black face on the left side of the main wall. The climbing begins with a powerful section up the pocketed wall leading to a big sidepull/ledge. From here, the holds get very small and far apart resulting in great vertical climbing between widely spaced bolts (by canyon standards).
One of my best route names, if I do say so myself...

Protection

7 bolts, open cold shut anchors

Photos

Martin Bigatti
  5.12a
Martin Bigatti  
  5.12a
This climb is absolutely amazing. Super technical with a couple pretty hard moves, perfectly placed bolts, and insane overall movement. If you liked it, I highly, highly recommend "Gotta Have Faith" (not in the guidebook but on MP)! Very similar style climbing on almost exact rock and just as good (if not better). It looks as if though noone gets on it but I dont think you will be disappointed! Aug 11, 2017
Franck Vee
  5.12-
Franck Vee  
  5.12-
Great route - the moves are stiff for the grade, but the pump is quite manageable (there are "rests" if you can recover by alternating arms while standing on the occasional decent foot).

The bottom part was IMO stiff but not necessarily the hardest sequence of the route, if you're decent with bulges & roof there isn't anything specially tricky about that one. Just a few power moves with fast thinking for feet placements.

The upper part however... fun, long moves on pockets & edges. There's no chalk (at least not when I climbed it), so it really makes it a guessing game finding the holds. At the same time, there are a few options at most sequences, depending how comfortable you are with thin feets & crimps and how much you're comfortable committing to sequence without necessarily knowing what's up ahead.

I did take a fall from the 4th bolt however (I went left and was gunning for the sidepull next to the draw), and it was quite a long one - almost leveled with my belayer, just above the 1st draw. I would recommand making sure your belayer is aware when you get there, and perhaps consider having him/her a bit lower (e.g. not at the ledge where the route starts, but a bit further down). Don't pull tons of slack cliping that draw either (there's not hold to clip with below anyways) - the fall is save as long as you don't do anything stupid and as long as your belayer doesn't give out tons of slack or belays too dynamically.

The other clips are a times far (for Spearfish) but the falls would be clean. Clipping stances - well they are OK, but if you're just breaking into 12 like I am you may find some rather precarious. None of them is a crux in itself, but they're not "easy" imo.

My hat to anyone who onsights this - but it is a nice redpoint candidate. Jul 29, 2017
Scavenger Wall at Blue Sky is back in business. All the studs have been cut and filled and the missing bolts are installed. Jun 6, 2017
All the glue in bolts on Lord of the Flies wall are good to go. Black Slabbath was repaired from the recent bolt issue. On the Scavenger Wall at Blue Sky, Skunk Boy and Turkey Vulture have new glue in bolts but the old studs are still there and need to be cut and filled. Carrion still needs the 4 bottom bolts put in and studs cut. Those should be taken care of next week. Jun 1, 2017
When we were doing the recent bolt repairs on Black Slabbath there was an issue with the caulk gun were were using. We have concluded that the epoxy was not mixing part A and B. I will be going up on 6-1-17 and fixing the suspect bolts. I will post an all clear when I get it taken care.
I also talked with the Daniel about the bolt failing and was told it did not fully pull out when it was fallen on. It partially pulled out and bent.

Thanks
Mike May 31, 2017
Daniel Dunn
Boulder, CO
Daniel Dunn   Boulder, CO
This route is currently missing the 3rd bolt. It ripped out when I fell on it over the weekend. The epoxy on the glue-in did not appear set at all. May 29, 2017
JR Cook
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
JR Cook   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
Best sport route I have done to date! Do this route if you're in the area! Bolts are perfectly placed with great clipping stances, even though they may be spaced a bit farther than is the norm for Spearfish. May 24, 2016
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
That made my day! Thanks Brent! Aug 11, 2013
BBQ
  5.12a
BBQ  
  5.12a
This truly is the route that all other Spearfish Canyon 5.12a should be judged by. It has it all and then some. Absolutely, positively the sickest line I have ever done. If you only have one morning to spare on your road trip to our fine canyon, start your session with Tasting Time, then do Indecent Exposure, get on Slabbath and cool down with either The Beast or The Conch. You will not be disappointed. For me this was a cool, August morning that I will never forget. Thanks for bolting Black Slabbath, Greg. This is one truly amazing climb! Aug 9, 2013
t.schwartz
  5.12a
t.schwartz  
  5.12a
can be 12+ with no chalk, awesome climb Apr 5, 2010