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Routes in Locals Only Rock

Get Lost T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Insider Info T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Intruder Alert TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Locals Only T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Trespassing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Ridge T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Pipeline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stealth Mode TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surfin' Safari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tube T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: Scott Cole, Errett Allen, Stan VanMarbod, 5/83.
Page Views: 1,980 total · 14/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Nov 1, 2006 with updates from kenr
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This climbs a flake and discontinuous cracks, to the right of Pipeline. For those wishing to set up a TR, the top anchor can be reached by first climbing up the much easier North Ridge route.


Pro to 3".


rex parker
las vegas n.v
rex parker   las vegas n.v
took more gear than a single rack to 3" doubles of 1-2.also about 8 slings as the route wonders back and forth. when you top out at the bolted three chain bomber anchors. and your second comes up. walk left on the ridge ten feet you will notice two bolts with three chain rings to rappel the cliff.with a sixty meter it will get you too a good ledge to down climb ten feet. trend skiers left of the huge canyon crack. and you will arrive on a ledge.. Jun 27, 2012
rex parker
las vegas n.v
rex parker   las vegas n.v
we did this because i dident think our sixty meter would make it down on rappel. Jun 27, 2012
Variation: The topo diagram in the print guidebook 4th edition by Marty Lewis about 25 feet up follows the left-side flake (which sort of faces right). But we found it more interesting (and strenuous) to climb the right-side flake (which faces left) - difficulty around 5.8 Aug 5, 2016
Very fun route on Top-Rope.

Sharon and I got access to the 2-bolt top anchor by first climbing up the much easier North Ridge route. Neither of us felt any need for directional protection.

70 meter rope was just long enough so we could belay our Top-Roping from the bottom. Aug 5, 2016
Kyle Johnson
Crowley Lake, CA
Kyle Johnson   Crowley Lake, CA
70m barely reaches the ground. Be cautious if you chopped any bit of rope. You can probably go off rappel using a steep-ish ledge or small boulder if I recall.
The top has wander-y climbing on 5.4ish but slightly runout. If you have half an idea how to crack climb, do the 5.7 just to the right for a more quality warm-up. Aug 9, 2018

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