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Routes in Flying Buttress

Cathedral Ceiling T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fly Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Buttress Airlines T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Tim and Janine McCabe
Page Views: 511 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tim McCabe on Nov 1, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

To the left of the South West Chimney on the south face start up a yellow boulder problem about 5.9. You are heading for a shallow crack 20 or so feet up so you can get gear 2-2.5 friend or equivalent. There is a possible RP placement along the way. From the shallow crack move left and get a small nut #1 rock and pull a 5.10a crux. Easy climbing leads to a bolt its as far right as I could get it but very low. Clip the bolt with a second rope and go up and left up a shallow dihedral with a thin crack. Get some gear clip the first rope and climb back down. From the ledge near the bolt the route goes right and up from the bolt. You’ll have some gear in over your head and the bolt below your feet. The first few moves are 5.10a and then run out 5.7 for a ways to the second bolt. After the second bolt there is some 5.8 and then easier climbing gets run out. There is only one large nut placement after the second bolt.

This climb was done in the strictest of traditional style all pro was put in on the lead from stances no aid in one push on site. Also with a minimalist approach to gear like older Needles routes. This climb is for those wanting a mental as well as physical challenge. If you like climbs like Super Pin and Hairy Pin then this climb is for you. This route was inspired by routes like the Bachar-Yerian in Toulumne Medows. Bachar's route was a testimony to his predecessors, including Muir and Salathe, and his respect for the rock. Bachar is quoted as saying, "It can be viewed as an art -- the art of admiring the mountain with the skillful use of bolts, and of respecting the rock by using as few as possible." If you don’t free solo up to 5.8 you don’t want to do this route.

Protection


A set of nuts small Aliens and TCU's a 2-2.5" cam and some long runners. Use two ropes.

Photos

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