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Escapade

5.11a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 49 votes
FA: Tom Herbert, 5/90
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Inner Gorge > Fun House
Warning Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the second route from the left and sits just right of the excellent Thumbs Up (5.11c). The route starts higher than the others and requires a bit of a scramble to reach the base.

Enjoyable moves up vertical rock on mostly positive holds comprise the lower crux, but brace yourself for the dicey slab moves (5.10+) near the top of the route which can throw you off if your footwork isn't dialed.

A stellar route, and the easiest of the Tom Herbert "E" routes, all of which are excellent. This route will not only test your lock-off strength, but your slab climbing ability as well, and it's precisely that reason which makes it such a classic.

Protection

10 bolts, anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The dicey slab moves up top make the route. Although the bolt is nearby, it is still a bit scary since you and your belayer can't see or hear each other. As my partner put it, "I felt all alone up there". Awesome route. Dec 6, 2006
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Has a distinctly "old-school" feel. The bolt placements are sporty, but not particularly run-out. The physical cruxes seemed to be lower on the route, but the moves past the last bolt test your mental stamina—and your toes. Almost every hold is perfect. In my opinion, this is a 5.11a for someone very comfortable at the grade. Not a great climb for someone breaking in to the 11's. Apr 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] I hate slab climbing, but I have to admit this is stellar... Nov 26, 2018
Adam B
California
[Hide Comment] It appears that two bolts have been added to the start of the climb. You can now start from the base of the cliff, a bit to the right of the old start. Feb 21, 2020
[Hide Comment] Almost as good as thumbs up. Found the upper slab harder than the guidebook crux. Bolted well, not run out at all. Mar 21, 2020