Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Paradise Lost

5.12a PG13, Trad, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.9 from 45 votes
FA: Tim Coats and Paul Davidson
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall

Description

Pull some unprotected, bouldery moves from the left to get to a beautiful right-facing fingers dihedral. Flared jams, hard stemming, and a bit of power laybacking are all required on this stout, sustained route. One of the most classic lines at the Forks.

Location

Just left of Equalizer, and a bit to the right of Loose Lips/Torpedo area.

Protection

lots of .75 and 1 Friends (.4 and .5 camalots), stoppers, long slings for the tree at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mark pulls hard on the layback.
[Hide Photo] Mark pulls hard on the layback.
Paradise Lost. photo by Mat Jacobson.
[Hide Photo] Paradise Lost. photo by Mat Jacobson.
Scotty works the layback over the second cruxy bulge on the flirtatious and classic Paradise Lost 5.12-, Paradise Forks.
[Hide Photo] Scotty works the layback over the second cruxy bulge on the flirtatious and classic Paradise Lost 5.12-, Paradise Forks.
Gumbies can send 5.12 too!<br>
Forks Fest 2015<br>
Photo by Chuck "The Man" Claude
[Hide Photo] Gumbies can send 5.12 too! Forks Fest 2015 Photo by Chuck "The Man" Claude
The late Rob Drysdale leading Paradise Lost 5.12-, 1990.
[Hide Photo] The late Rob Drysdale leading Paradise Lost 5.12-, 1990.
Ivan Cross, mid ought's.
[Hide Photo] Ivan Cross, mid ought's.
Visiting climber pulling through main crux on an onsight attempt of Paradise Lost
[Hide Photo] Visiting climber pulling through main crux on an onsight attempt of Paradise Lost

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
 
[Hide Comment] It is fairly uprotected to get started, but I don't think the route is PG13, its about as protected as it gets. The pro on the normal start is better then the direct start which I prefer nowadays. The direct start is clean, fun version with three moves but is totally unprotected.

Its also probably one of the top routes at Paradise Forks Apr 27, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
[Hide Comment] This pitch has it all: heady start, tough jams, laybacks, stems and a real enduro element. One of the best pitches at PF and maybe in Northern Arizona. Oct 10, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Come on Rickd, gravity, rattly fingers and a lack of endurance probably had more to do with it than a bloody pinky. That was my downfall yesterday. Even so it was a beautiful failure and was the best climb I got on this weekend. May 18, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] It's a pinky ya big weenie. Ha Ha. I should have know it was bad if you mentioned it. May 19, 2009
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Just climbed this thing today, wow one of my favorite climbs in AZ. Enduro, has it all. Apr 24, 2010
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
[Hide Comment] Awesome route, but I thought it felt hard for the grade. If Davidson's Dihedral is 11+ I don't see how this is just a fraction of a grade harder at 12-. Nov 5, 2012
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] If this climb is PG13 then Jane Fonda and Bach's celebration should be 5.12 R/X. The start is heads up but not PG13! Jun 25, 2013
Eric Shon
Phoenix
5.11c PG13
[Hide Comment] I top roped this the other day and it didn't feel that bad. Certainly not .12a/b, felt more like .11 c. Jun 26, 2013
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] You didn't lead it yet you downgrade it and give a pg13? Jul 1, 2013
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks Robbie, you saved me the effort. ^^^^ Love people rating routes on TR not that they can't be accurate but this route gets harder if you are placing gear. Duh. Jul 1, 2013
fubar
Babylon
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] With a TR, a couple of rests, and stepping on gear, this was no more more than 5.10+...

Awesome route. My favorite of the area. Jul 2, 2013
[Hide Comment] With hexes and Orange PAs, it felt a bit stiff...

I also suspect if you fell of the start you might then think it has some PG13 to it. Once in the corner there's nothing PG13 about it.

PG,R,X ratings are not meant to be averaged out over the climb like we sometimes do with YDS. But rather to indicate to the leader that there might be something of concern.

Of course, originally it was just rated 12a or maybe 11+. PG13 was something at the movies. Jul 2, 2013
Eric Shon
Phoenix
5.11c PG13
[Hide Comment] well, I was able to on sight it on my third go, so it felt a little soft for me. Jul 10, 2013
[Hide Comment] Do you mean redpoint? Jul 10, 2013
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] If you can't onsight it on your second go you really suck! Jul 10, 2013
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] Local troll Casey Niggemyer Just being a Dick!
Eric-Shon

Nice.......

I must say you don't have to make up a name that sounds silly. Niggemyer is quite silly enough. Sep 20, 2014
Dillon Metcalfe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Maybe my favorite single-pitch climb to date. My friend Jayci found that a blue metolius can go slightly above the loose-looking flake at the start. With that beta, I didn't feel like this route was PG13 or even PG. What a beauty! Apr 21, 2015