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Toxic Avenger

5.10d, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 17 votes
FA: Neal Strickland, Hugh Loeffler, 1991
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Wall of Denial
Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description

I don't like to call this route a sport route. It's a bolted route for sure, but there are only 4 bolts in 60 feet and no separate anchors for this one.

To some it will seem runout and to others the bolts will seem undersized.

Regardless, this is a classic route and deserves your attention.

Edge up a black streak to the ledge. Traverse left until you can move up on to the ledge and belay from anchors above Buckeye Testpiece.

Location

Immediately right of Buckeye Testpiece.

Protection

Four bolts, you can put in a directional under the boulder on the ledge. Bring a large cam for that.

Belay or set up a top rope from Buckeye Testpiece anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mary following on the thin edges of the super classic lead Toxic Avenger.
[Hide Photo] Mary following on the thin edges of the super classic lead Toxic Avenger.
Clipping the scary high second bolt.
[Hide Photo] Clipping the scary high second bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Hayduke Cloud
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Really fun route. Don't be intimidated by the well-spaced bolts, as the clips are easy and the falls would always be clean. Very fun face climbing on beautiful rock. Dec 15, 2008
[Hide Comment] As long as you dont blow it while clipping. Sep 2, 2012
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
 
[Hide Comment] RIP this climb. Not sure when it happened, but between bolts 2-3 a key flake hold has seemingly been pulled off, leaving behind soft sandy choss, with only more suspect rock left behind. We tried it despite this things and found it to be not worth climbing when coupled with how dirty the whole entire route was, I'm guessing since no one has climbed this thing in a while. Too bad, this route was badass. Sep 26, 2022