Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Scott Ayers & Doug Jaffe, 1989
Page Views: 11,605 total · 78/month
Shared By: C Miller on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

98 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details


Boulder up to a high first bolt (optional gear here) and then lieback your way up the splitter crack/flake to finish with a seam on a steep slab. Decent crack climbing skills will negate the need for anything but quickdraws, but if unsure take some gear.

Originally done with only a couple of bolts and gear (and rated 10d), this route slowly evolved over time as more bolts were added here and there, and now stands as a fully bolted and totally classic sport route.


This is the striking crack line on the right side of the Dihedrals, and is located between Bushfire (5.12c) and Slackjaw (5.10a).


10 bolts, anchors
Isaac T.
Oceanside, CA
  5.11a R
Isaac T.   Oceanside, CA
  5.11a R
This route seemed a little runout to me, the first 15 feet to the first bolt is a little sketchy. After that it is just hard pumpy laybacking. Super fun though, all the way to the end. Dec 12, 2006
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
I always use a couple of pieces (.75" and 1.25") to supplement the spaced first two bolts. There are potential placements higher, but I haven't found them to be necessary. Mar 25, 2007
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Why is this crack bolted?? Why bolt a crack in the first place. I sport climb, but not cracks. Bolts belong on unprotectable faces, not on perfectly protectable cracks. Jul 3, 2008
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Since you are asking on each route, I'll post for each route:

The LADWP enforces a strict "no tradding" rule in the Gorge as part of the use agreement. Bolts only! First offense is a confiscation of any hardware deemed "Trad" and a $50.00 fine payable to the ASCA. Jul 3, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
What happens when someone removes bolts to make a route a trad route? Jul 3, 2008
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
The route is "closed" to climbing and the crack is put on the short list to be cemented up. Jul 3, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
I asked on 2 routes. But then I noticed so many, I figured I would just ask in the main area. Thx again for responding. Jul 4, 2008
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Great route....Did it on gear only this week....Really fun movement, on bulletproof rock. Rack= Single full set of stoppers, doubles or triples in Grey TCU - Orange TCU top slab is a little runout, you can get a good yellow TCU deep in a hold about 10feet past the lip and thats about it Oct 17, 2008
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Is it okay to use trad gear to supplement bolts if you feel they are a bit too far apart? Thanks! Apr 13, 2009
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
Guys, zee Fish is F'ing with you. There ARE trad climbs in the Gorge. John, if they bolted it, there is probably a reason. The east side of the Sierra's have a great local community with a wide range of ethical stances. The locals do a great job of balancing trad and runout bolt ethics with modern sport climbing. Best. Oct 23, 2009
Simon H
Oakland, CA
Simon H   Oakland, CA
This route has 10 bolts. Hook anchors. Aug 29, 2011
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
Did this the other day, completely safely bolted, can't wait to go back and try it on gear. Mar 23, 2015
AL .
AL .   UT
Goes really well on gear, in fact I got more gear placed than there are bolts to clip. As far as a no trad rule I'm pretty sure that's not a thing, the dihedrals have at least 3 routes that are gear climbs. Jun 6, 2015
Mak Ely
Orange County
Mak Ely   Orange County
We found it pretty beta/sequence intensive but a great lead. A few small cams between some bolts are peace of mind (if you have the time to stop and place). Final 3 bolts on the overhang are the crux then the angle lowers above, still tricky, but less grunt. Nov 13, 2017