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Routes in Dihedrals

Bombay on the Rocks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bonfire of the Panties S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bushfire S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Chossman of the Desert S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Delicate Arete-ism S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Delicate Mechanism S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gangsta Lean S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Friday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Not Proud Enough to Name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
O.R.G.asam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
One Armed Bandit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumping the Slots T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slackjaw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Fine Booty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Too Proud to Ignore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Towel Rack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wannabe Gangsta S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Scott Ayers & Doug Jaffe, 1989
Page Views: 9,903 total, 73/month
Shared By: C Miller on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Boulder up to a high first bolt (optional gear here) and then lieback your way up the splitter crack/flake to finish with a seam on a steep slab. Decent crack climbing skills will negate the need for anything but quickdraws, but if unsure take some gear.

Originally done with only a couple of bolts and gear (and rated 10d), this route slowly evolved over time as more bolts were added here and there, and now stands as a fully bolted and totally classic sport route.

Location

This is the striking crack line on the right side of the Dihedrals, and is located between Bushfire (5.12c) and Slackjaw (5.10a).

Protection

10 bolts, anchors
Matt Kelly
Orange County
 
Matt Kelly   Orange County
 
We found it pretty beta/sequence intensive but a great lead. A few small cams between some bolts are peace of mind (if you have the time to stop and place). Final 3 bolts on the overhang are the crux then the angle lowers above, still tricky, but less grunt. Nov 13, 2017
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.11a
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.11a
Goes really well on gear, in fact I got more gear placed than there are bolts to clip. As far as a no trad rule I'm pretty sure that's not a thing, the dihedrals have at least 3 routes that are gear climbs. Jun 6, 2015
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.11a
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.11a
Did this the other day, completely safely bolted, can't wait to go back and try it on gear. Mar 23, 2015
Simon H
Oakland, CA
  5.11a
Simon H   Oakland, CA
  5.11a
This route has 10 bolts. Hook anchors. Aug 29, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Guys, zee Fish is F'ing with you. There ARE trad climbs in the Gorge. John, if they bolted it, there is probably a reason. The east side of the Sierra's have a great local community with a wide range of ethical stances. The locals do a great job of balancing trad and runout bolt ethics with modern sport climbing. Best. Oct 23, 2009
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Russ,
Is it okay to use trad gear to supplement bolts if you feel they are a bit too far apart? Thanks! Apr 13, 2009
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Great route....Did it on gear only this week....Really fun movement, on bulletproof rock. Rack= Single full set of stoppers, doubles or triples in Grey TCU - Orange TCU top slab is a little runout, you can get a good yellow TCU deep in a hold about 10feet past the lip and thats about it Oct 17, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
I asked on 2 routes. But then I noticed so many, I figured I would just ask in the main area. Thx again for responding. Jul 4, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
The route is "closed" to climbing and the crack is put on the short list to be cemented up. Jul 3, 2008
What happens when someone removes bolts to make a route a trad route? Jul 3, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Since you are asking on each route, I'll post for each route:

The LADWP enforces a strict "no tradding" rule in the Gorge as part of the use agreement. Bolts only! First offense is a confiscation of any hardware deemed "Trad" and a $50.00 fine payable to the ASCA. Jul 3, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Why is this crack bolted?? Why bolt a crack in the first place. I sport climb, but not cracks. Bolts belong on unprotectable faces, not on perfectly protectable cracks. Jul 3, 2008
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.11a
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.11a
I always use a couple of pieces (.75" and 1.25") to supplement the spaced first two bolts. There are potential placements higher, but I haven't found them to be necessary. Mar 25, 2007
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
  5.11a R
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
  5.11a R
This route seemed a little runout to me, the first 15 feet to the first bolt is a little sketchy. After that it is just hard pumpy laybacking. Super fun though, all the way to the end. Dec 12, 2006