Avg: 3 from 9 votes
|Type:||Snow, Alpine, 7 pitches|
|Page Views:||3,923 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Kurt Johnson on Oct 31, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
To get there from Chaos Canyon, take the Lake Haiyaha trail from Dream Lake. This may not be as easy as it sounds since, for me last May, it involved steeper and icier slopes than the couloir itself (literally), and which, for a friend who tried to head up there to do some bouldering a week later (in May!?), involved some thigh-deep post-holing. Because of this, it might actually be quicker and easier to take the "unimproved" trail which starts near the junction of the Mills Lake and The Loch trails. Once you get into Chaos Canyon, take the path of least resistance (starting from the left side of Lake Haiyaha) to the base of the route, which becomes obvious as you go further up the canyon. This approach allows you to do the entire couloir from the bottom up, although the upper half is steeper and more interesting.
However you start the route, once you top out, you can either downclimb (or ski if you brought 'em) or continue up the broad rocky ridge to the summit, which requires one more short climb up the summit snowfield. The easiest descent from here is down the Flattop trail, but Tyndall Gorge would be a more fun option.