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No Substance
V8,
Boulder,
Avg: 3.9 from 56
votes
FA: Steven Jeffery
Utah
> Central Utah
> Joe's Valley
> Right Fork
> No Substance
Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock!
Details
Attention:
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo… and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
No Substance is the obvious left arete of the boulder with the same name. Start on the big hole on the left (yes, you can fit through it. Try going in feet first from the bottom!), and work your way up the arete to top out at the apex. It's harder than it looks.
Location
The left arete. Can't miss it.
Protection
Crashpad, and a spotter to keep you out of the tree if you fall from the top.
[Hide Photo] Front Range climber giving it a go. If you know this guy PM me so I can send him a copy.
[Hide Photo] Brian spanning out
[Hide Photo] Ian trying to get something out of No Substance.
Salt Lake City, UT
SLC, UT
I confess in such days of darkness I felt everyone had forgotten what MP does best. Apr 10, 2024