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No Additives
V11,
Boulder,
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
FA: Steven Jeffery
Utah
> Central Utah
> Joe's Valley
> Right Fork
> No Substance
Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock!
Details
Attention:
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo… and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
Wicked hard, nearly impossible if you don't have a long wingspan. Start on a great sidepull/undercling crimp with your left hand and two measly dimples for your right, then fire up to the sharp slot above. Top out on the apex of the boulder.
This is every bit of V11, and is a worldclass problem.
A sit down start bumps the grade up to V13.
Location
It's 30ft from the road. You might need help if you can't find this one...
Protection
Crashpad
[Hide Photo] It's a long toss. I'm sticking that sucker next trip for sure.
youtube.com/watch?v=0PIcKCz… May 26, 2014
Small Town, USA