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No Additives

V11, Boulder,  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Steven Jeffery
Utah > Central Utah > Joe's Valley > Right Fork > No Substance
Warning Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock! DetailsDrop down

Description

Wicked hard, nearly impossible if you don't have a long wingspan. Start on a great sidepull/undercling crimp with your left hand and two measly dimples for your right, then fire up to the sharp slot above. Top out on the apex of the boulder.

This is every bit of V11, and is a worldclass problem.

A sit down start bumps the grade up to V13.

Location

It's 30ft from the road. You might need help if you can't find this one...

Protection

Crashpad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

It's a long toss.  I'm sticking that sucker next trip for sure.
[Hide Photo] It's a long toss. I'm sticking that sucker next trip for sure.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I heard the crimp you dyno to broke does anyone know if this is true? Feb 10, 2007
[Hide Comment] FA: Chris Sharma Sep 25, 2009
SJJ
[Hide Comment] FA was Steven Jeffery and the sit went unrepeated. the hold you jump to did break but it is still doable Oct 5, 2010
[Hide Comment] Chris climbing
youtube.com/watch?v=0PIcKCz… May 26, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
[Hide Comment] Wow, that was impressive seeing Chris send to 2nd ascent of "No Additives.". Thanks, Adam. Jun 25, 2014
[Hide Comment] I think the stand is v13 and sit is v15 now, Griffen Whiteside FA'd them after the break. Apr 11, 2019