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Routes in No Substance

Gut Wrencher V6 7A
Hydrogenated Oil V10 7C+
No Additives V11 8A
No Substance V8 7B
Pimper's Paradise V4 6B
Scuzlocks V13 8B
Thriller V0 4 R
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Type: Boulder
FA: Steven Jeffery
Page Views: 4,853 total · 33/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Wicked hard, nearly impossible if you don't have a long wingspan. Start on a great sidepull/undercling crimp with your left hand and two measly dimples for your right, then fire up to the sharp slot above. Top out on the apex of the boulder.

This is every bit of V11, and is a worldclass problem.

A sit down start bumps the grade up to V13.

Location

It's 30ft from the road. You might need help if you can't find this one...

Protection

Crashpad

Photos

I heard the crimp you dyno to broke does anyone know if this is true? Feb 10, 2007
DonP  
FA: Chris Sharma Sep 25, 2009
SJJ
SJJ  
FA was Steven Jeffery and the sit went unrepeated. the hold you jump to did break but it is still doable Oct 5, 2010
Chris climbing
youtube.com/watch?v=0PIcKCz… May 26, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Wow, that was impressive seeing Chris send to 2nd ascent of "No Additives.". Thanks, Adam. Jun 25, 2014

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