Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,165 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

Quite different from the usual 12b at Smith. A powerful, overhanging, bouldery line. Begin up a short series of crimps and underclings to two good incut pockets. A powerful lockoff and pinch right where the overhangs characterizes the crux. An easy mantel follows. This is a very onsightable Smith 12b.

Location

Half way up the left side of the Gully. Directly left of Cocaine crack and right of Quest to Fire. It is the most overhung route in the area.

Protection

4 or 5 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

There is a currently a big stick at the base of this route that is long enough to reach the first bolt. I also recommend a stick-clip; the climbing is not very difficult to the first bolt, but the move right off of the ground is a little awkward, and a fall from the bottom might result in a tumble down the hill.

This route is a lot of fun. All of the holds are pretty juggy, but it is steep and sustained, with not-so-great footholds through a lot of it. The crux is really just fighting off the pump. Nov 10, 2008
Flacker
Lander, WY
Flacker   Lander, WY
I like the description: here's the beta, but it's onsightable Oct 4, 2015
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
  5.12b
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
  5.12b
Younger Ryan didnt realize move for move descriptions are pretty lame. My bad. Oct 5, 2015
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
 
Geeeezzzz Ryan tryna blow my pure onsight


Fun route!!! (I didn't send) Apr 19, 2017