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Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully

Armageddon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blade, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloodshot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bongo Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bound in Bogata S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chicken McNuggets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cocaine Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Babies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deep Impact S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freebase S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Meal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippos on Ice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobbit's Pockets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Up the Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quest to Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shake 'n Flake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skeleton Surfer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slit Your Wrists S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vomit Launch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,758 total, 20/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Quite different from the usual 12b at Smith. A powerful, overhanging, bouldery line. Begin up a short series of crimps and underclings to two good incut pockets. A powerful lockoff and pinch right where the overhangs characterizes the crux. An easy mantel follows. This is a very onsightable Smith 12b.

Location

Half way up the left side of the Gully. Directly left of Cocaine crack and right of Quest to Fire. It is the most overhung route in the area.

Protection

4 or 5 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
 
Geeeezzzz Ryan tryna blow my pure onsight


Fun route!!! (I didn't send) Apr 19, 2017
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
 
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
 
Younger Ryan didnt realize move for move descriptions are pretty lame. My bad. Oct 5, 2015
Flacker
Lander, WY
Flacker   Lander, WY
I like the description: here's the beta, but it's onsightable Oct 4, 2015
There is a currently a big stick at the base of this route that is long enough to reach the first bolt. I also recommend a stick-clip; the climbing is not very difficult to the first bolt, but the move right off of the ground is a little awkward, and a fall from the bottom might result in a tumble down the hill.

This route is a lot of fun. All of the holds are pretty juggy, but it is steep and sustained, with not-so-great footholds through a lot of it. The crux is really just fighting off the pump. Nov 10, 2008