Type: Boulder
FA: JJ Schlick
Page Views: 1,568 total · 11/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

Start with both hands on the arete in low, good holds. Work up the arete via gaston and left face crimps to jug right on the arete. Go left onto the face to finish up. An interesting inside heel hook adds the extra core tension to surf out onto the little holds.

Another good variation is to work further left on the face after you hit the good jug. Adds a nice horzontal dyno.

Location

Day Dream boulder.

Protection

pad

Photos

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V5
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V5
This is a great problem. The hard moves are low to the ground, so the top out is not bad. Dec 14, 2008
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
 
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
 
One of the key holds broke off on this problem (in John's right hand in the picture). I used the small starting holds on arete to a dyno right hand on jug. The problem may be a bit more difficult now. Apr 2, 2011
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V5
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V5
Man mike, you're on a hold breaking spree! May 19, 2011
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
In its current state this problem felt about as hard as The Loner for me, and definitely harder than Only the Lonely. If it matters, I went to the start holds to a left hand crimp on the face, then dynoed to the good hold on the arete. Jul 11, 2011