Type: Boulder
FA: JJ Schlick
Page Views: 2,598 total · 18/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


70 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

On the right side of the Daydream Boulder ST with hands on good jugs. Work past gaston into undercling, and then into two locker hand jams. Jugs at the top. This is deffinately one of the reasons for a visit. Good clean fun.

Location

Day Dream boulder right side.

Protection

pad
Michael Richichi
Portland, OR
 
Michael Richichi   Portland, OR
 
I left my phone in the car, so I didn't have MP or pictures of other people climbing to look at when I came across this boulder. For me, the obvious line was a sit start with matching hands on the low ledge, then working my hands up the right arĂȘte using two or three holds before securing the undercling pocket. After that, I tried three different finishes:
1. hand jam the crack
2. shifting my weight to the left to push hard on the right with my feet so that I could use the left side of the crack as a side pull instead
3. high feet and dynoing to the right top corner of the crack
I like all the different options to finish it depending on your style of climbing. I avoided the left arĂȘte completely since I wasn't sure if it was on, but I think using it would detract from the flow of the line I sent. Sep 8, 2014