Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bruce Morris, Bill Taylor, 1974.
Page Views: 2,668 total · 18/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 29, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This route is left of the center of the cliff and starts in a crack on the left side of a polished gold slab.
Climb the crack, move up past two bolts (5.9), to a three bolt belay.
Climb through polish past two bolts to a two bolt anchor. Rappel 165'.

Location

For more complete information, get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.

Protection

Pro to 1.5", draws.

Photos

Carquinez  
 
This one has everything a nice 5.7 crack leading to a couple 5.9 face moves and then a 10.b overhang. The overhang is easy if you're tall. It's one step and then an easy stroll to the top. Dec 5, 2007
Patrick Smith
  5.10a
Patrick Smith  
  5.10a
Amazing route. 5.7 finger crack protects and climbs like a j-tree crack. Edging at the top is classing Tuolumne.

Supertopo calls this 10a R, but in my opinion it is not deserving of the R rating. At no point did I feel a fall would have been much more than inconvenient. Also, some will call this two pitches; it can easily be done as one with a 70m (probably even a 60m). 70m rope will reach the ground rapping off the second anchors. Jul 4, 2010
Tommy L-D
  5.10a
Tommy L-D  
  5.10a
You can reach the second set of anchors with a 60 (for one long pitch) but will need a second rope to rap. Jul 19, 2010
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
awesome climb, a nice crack to Glacial Polished slab. Jul 1, 2013
Jeff Edge  
 
First pitch was a lot of fun, didn't feel nearly as hard as like Goodrich Pinnacle (so maybe its 5.8?) and probably only PG-13, if that. Anyway, its worthwhile if you're walkin past. Oct 19, 2014
Colin Brochard
Austin
  5.9 PG13
Colin Brochard   Austin
  5.9 PG13
Thin and slick at the top of the first pitch :) Oct 20, 2014
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.10a PG13
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.10a PG13
The 'second pitch' (easily led as one) is a bit heads-up. PG-13 for sure.
60m is fine, as you can do two raps. Aug 28, 2016
wsperry
Truckee, CA
wsperry   Truckee, CA
Placed a Red Offset DMM at the top of the crack about 10' below the first bolt that made me smile. Jul 10, 2017
noah dailey
Mill Valley, CA
 
noah dailey   Mill Valley, CA
 
Crux is short. offset stoppers are handy so is a steady head. Nov 6, 2017
carl al
 
carl al  
 
reminded me of mental physics in JTree Sep 4, 2018