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Routes in South Flank

14 Karat S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Alimony Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alimony Cracks, right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fingertips S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Great Circle, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guide Cracks 1 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide Cracks 2 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide Cracks 4 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guide Cracks 3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hogwash S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
It Is Finished S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Liberation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prespiration T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Bruce Morris, Bill Taylor, Tom Judson, 8/1973.
Page Views: 2,575 total · 18/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 29, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Climb past 2 bolts, then move right past two more and up a flake to a two bolt belay.
A 5.10a pitch moves left and up past two bolts then right past another bolt, then up to a two bolt anchor.

Location

For more complete information, get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.

Protection

Draws.

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b R
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.10b R
With a name like "Fingertips", I was expecting a fingertip crack, which is the furthest from the truth! This is a super-polished, scarcely-protected face climb. Even on toprope, this felt insecure and delicate. I can only imagine how it must feel on lead! Jun 17, 2007
Carquinez  
 
The start is about 30 feet to the first bolt. Long run with potential grand fall, so be careful. It's only about 5.8 but can be intimidating. This is classic Tuolumne, polished and clean with exciting runouts that aren't too bad in comparison to other climbs in the region. Dec 5, 2007
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
In terms of gear, a couple of wires doesn't hurt for the first pitch. On the second pitch, a large cam is nice for the double wide cracks that finish off the pitch. Without one, you're looking at a good 40' runout to the anchors, maybe more.

An awesome climb. Feb 2, 2009
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.10a PG13
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.10a PG13
Really fun face climb. I led the first pitch of the 5.10a standard route and then toproped the 5.10b direct variation. The bolts are spaced out a bit and the climbing is sustained on thin dime edges. My fingertips actually started bleeding from crimping too hard on the sharp edges while toproping the direct variation. The direct was steeper, but the edges felt a little more positive (although the positive feeling may have been partly due to the toprope). Sep 8, 2009
FA Info:

The direct variation was done by David Rubine and Don Mealing in 1981 in stance and was called March of Dimes. The name was derived from the fact that Mealing had just broken his foot on another Toulemne route and had to jug the route after Rubine to clean it. May 23, 2010
Nathan Walton
Van Meter, IA
 
Nathan Walton   Van Meter, IA
 
bolts are just where you need them, sparse but protected Jul 23, 2018

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