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Dacite Conspiracy

5.9, Sport, 120 ft,  Avg: 2.9 from 21 votes
FA: Mark Trainor, Perry Teeters
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Hackberry Creek
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Excellent sustained climbing up a pocketed face with seams on a near vertical face.

Location

Centerpiece Area of Hackberry Creek, south of the creek and about 30' East of the waterfall. Look for a large cairn from the top of the waterfall. A pretty good trail with some scrambling will take you to the base. The route starts at a small left facing dihedral-ish type feature formed from some semi-detached blocks.

Protection

9 bolts with 2 bolt anchor. A rack of singles to 0.75" and nuts if you really like to sew it up.

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roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Watch for bees at the top. It looks like there is a hive maybe 20-30 feet from the anchors, and I had a few scouts come check me out the other day. And, no chains, just 3 bolts with webbing. Mar 8, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] +1 regarding the bees at the top. the hive appears to be near the top on the opposite side of the formation, so be particularly careful on the climbs in that area.

a very nice climb for the queen creek area. May 26, 2011
Ben Beard
Superior, AZ
[Hide Comment] bees are still there, it was a windy day and yet a very upset sounding bee still came over to us. Definitely bee careful Sep 25, 2011
Ben Beard
Superior, AZ
[Hide Comment] dacite conspiracy now has chains to the two bolts with 2 lockers on the end of the chains. The chains now allow climbers to minimize their bee exposure. If you are careful, it is not difficult to rappel or lower off a 60 meter rope. Tie knots in your ends!!!! Moves to the first bolt can be protect with a #1 or #0.75 c4. Whoever's locker and rap rings I have can have them back, just contact me. Jan 22, 2012
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
[Hide Comment] great climb, very fun, perfect weather, no bees, I actually forgot to look for the hive Feb 6, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] No bees and thanks to whoever put the massive chains and locking biners on the anchors for this. Very nice addition to a very fun climb. In my brother's words (his first time out there), "the climbs just keep getting better and better." Jan 5, 2014
[Hide Comment] Great Route, we added a cam to protect the exposure at the start. And the 9th bolt is up and over the ledge so just keep going, it's all there. Super fun, sustained route. Nov 13, 2017