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Routes in Base Routes

Ahab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bluffer, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hook, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Hook, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delectable Pinnacle, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Cap Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1-2
Footstool, Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gollum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Pinnacle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indubious Battle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Arista T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Cosita, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Cosita, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Escuela T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little John, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little John, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mark of Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moby Dick, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Mix T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Peter Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peter Pan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reeds Leads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Neurotic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sacherer Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salathe (pitch 1) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Seedy Leads T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Short But Thin T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Simulkrime T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slack ( center), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slack, Left, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Give-away T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TRON S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Joe Kelsey, Roman Laba, John Hudson, Sept., 1967.
Page Views: 2,992 total, 22/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 28, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The Gollum is a precarious stack of blocks, forming a pinnacle in a spectacular location.
The right side is 5.8.
The left side is 5.10a offwidth.

Location

From the toe of the Nose, walk up right past a large scoop. "Gollum" is on the right edge.

Protection

Pro to 3".

Photos

- No Photos -
I agree. The right side is a very unique, intense little 5.8. It might even verge on 5.9. It looks easier than it is and also looks junky. But you are actually constantly engaged in stellar little crux-ettes all the way up and protection is certainly adequate. I was surprised like other posters here, how good a route this little thing is. Summit is pretty amazing: tiny and perched up under the gigantic overhanging wall below South Seas, Pacific Ocean et al.

The left side is one of the more miraculous 5.10s I have ever put up. You are dead horizontal in this offwidth but find way-hefty cracks and holds both inside the offwidth for your left hand but giant footholds out on the roof surface for your right foot. Although in a classic offwidth position, you are actually faceclimbing more than crack climbing there. The last bit of the pitch and which ends on the micro-summit, almost gets to be harder than down below as the crack pinches off and the wall gets way steep. This is a very rewarding and dramatic climb that never really gets very hard. Safe also, btw. Dec 24, 2012
Bonesaw
CA
  5.9
Bonesaw   CA
  5.9
Led the right side with lots of waterfall from above (snowmelt/runoff from top of El Cap). IMO, this is a SPENDID route! Yes, I gave it 4 stars and I honestly like it that much! Well worth the approach. I also think it is probably the stiffest 5.8 I've been on. Certainly seems more like 5.9. Still need to get on the left side, but by the time we finished the right, I was wet and so was everything I left at the base... cold and wet, still worth it! Mar 13, 2011
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
Definitely bring your #6 friend for the left side. Or better yet, "Don't leave home without it!"

The right side is great hands and the pro to 3" is correct, but don't ever take Blitzo's word for it! May 4, 2010
Pro to 5" is more like it Blitzo...you ever seen this thing? May 4, 2010