PRINT: Climb Huston's Arête, Governor Dodge State Park

Huston's Arête

V5-, Boulder,

Avg: 2.7 from 10 votes
FA: Jason Huston
Wisconsin > South > Governor Dodge SP > Group Camps > 4. Group Camp B > Plan B Area > High Anxiety

Access Issue: DO NOT WALK THROUGH THE CAMPSITE Details

The park has stated that access will be revoked if people keep walking through the campsite to get to the boulders if there are campers there. PARK AT THE BATHROOMS AND HEAD UP THE HILL, CUT RIGHT AND HUG THE CLIFF BAND UNTIL YOU GET TO THE CLIMBS. DO NOT WALK THROUGH THE CAMPSITE.

Description

Start at the jugs in the middle of the face. Move up and right over good holds until you are hugging the shield, then climb up the arête. I have a feeling that this one may end in an all out dyno for the top. I wouldn't mind having a couple beefy pads down below...

Location

Far left of Plan B — go to the saddle between Backbone and Plan B, walk southeast along a faint trail near High Anxiety. Walk about 3 minutes, around the corner and there you are. "Venom" and "Things just got harder" are to the left of Huston's Arete.

Protection

Pad.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sitting there waiting...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

SteveS

FA-Jason Huston. really fun problem with tricky footwork. Dec 10, 2006

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ

Just a big dyno? Dec 11, 2006

Brian Runnells

I don't think I would have wanted to dyno off of any of the holds that I was on. I just sort of grovelled my way onto some sharp small holds and got my feet up on the big holds at the start and I was able to reach up to the jug at the top. Nov 1, 2007

Dobbe Dobbe
Madison, WI

the other day me and Remo did the right line with out the arete and then established on the small crimps and threw for the lip and both got it. I don't now if this is mostly the same as Hustons arete or not but it was a super fun line. Very bad upper holds. Jul 29, 2008

sweatpants
Broomfield, CO

V5-

haha gross. those holds at the top are hurtful as i remember from doing hustons... i would say that should be a new route/grade that you should name and throw on the site. brave men to get on those crimps again. Good work guys Jul 30, 2008

george reynolds
Wisconsin

last summer i was climbing a route that i think was just to the left of this, started sitting in the middle of the slab both hands on a big pinch and then stood up to stick a large undercling after that some small side pulls. i ended up working the left arete to get to the top but was wondering if the route was established and if anyone could tell me the name and or rating???? Dec 18, 2008

SteveS

Sounds like it's a variation of Venom and the left arete. That's my guess at least. Dec 18, 2008

george reynolds
Wisconsin

oh it was venom thanks for the info i didnt see it before when i was searching through all of the routes, thanks. Dec 22, 2008