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Dazed and Confuzed

5.12a, Sport, 50 ft,  Avg: 3.3 from 41 votes
FA: Glenn Schuler, Mark Milligan, Rick Westbay, 5/88
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon
Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

This route is super cool! If you're one of those gym climbers that bitches about the small holds in the SLV, then try this route. Not a small hold on it, but it will get your attention. Shady all day!

Eds. this is the stunning arete on the left side of the wall. The guidebook is actually incorrect.

Location

This is in the alcove across from the Virgin.

Protection

~4 bolts. There are anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Al working the arete of Dazed & Confused.
[Hide Photo] Al working the arete of Dazed & Confused.
Topping out after a desperate arete-hugging battle.
[Hide Photo] Topping out after a desperate arete-hugging battle.
Workin' the arete.
[Hide Photo] Workin' the arete.
At the second last clip.
[Hide Photo] At the second last clip.
Scott starting up "Dazed and Confused".
[Hide Photo] Scott starting up "Dazed and Confused".
Scott dialing "Dazed and Confused".
[Hide Photo] Scott dialing "Dazed and Confused".

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Monty
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I believe this is just left of Sheer Strength. Actually, I think the SLV guide by D'Antonio calls this Sheer Strength. Feb 12, 2009
Rico
Aurora, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] There are discrepancies everywhere I've looked (Rock Climbing Colorado guidebook, SLV, and mountain project). I thought this one was Sheer Strength, the crack to the right was Sheer Lunacy, and the next climb to the right in the corner was Dazed and Confused. But what do I know. May 26, 2009
NEH
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This is a fantastic route!! Highly recommended! It is much more thuggish than the typical thin, techy, Penitente route. Apr 29, 2011
[Hide Comment] 5 bolts. Supa fun. Aug 29, 2012
[Hide Comment] Replaced first 3 bolts with 1/2 SS sleeve bolts in 2018. The original wedge bolts were severely damaged from being hung/whipped on while they were spinning. Hard to keep wedge bolts tight in this soft rock. New hardware courtesy of the ASCA, consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org. Jun 28, 2018