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Routes in Smorgasbord Wall

Smorgasbord T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strawberry Jam T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Texas Direct T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Texas Flakes T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,448 total, 26/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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37 Opinions

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Texas Flakes is a great beginner's route located in the center section of the Smorgasbord Wall. It climbs a series of large, left angling flakes to a spacious ledge with a tree. There is good protection all along the route. Bring some long slings to reduce rope drag, and beware of the rope getting caught behind one of the flakes. Fun, easy climb.

Protection

Cams up to a #3 Camalot. Long slings are helpful. Two bolt anchor at the top.
Andrew P  
 
fun and heady (but also super easy) -- I actually wouldn't recommend as a first trad lead b/c it's so run out, meandering and hard to protect 3 days ago
Jake Cantu
  5.4
Jake Cantu  
  5.4
A Super awesome first trad lead. Big gear at the top and definitely use long runners.

Also a solid and relaxing solo for the aspiring soloist. Nov 7, 2016
Superclimber
  5.4
Superclimber  
  5.4
The novice leader should be aware that the top will be run out without a large piece and a long runner. Also, the route traverses to the left, so you have to think about protecting your second. Feb 8, 2014
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
 
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
 
I put a #7 Tri-Cam behind the top flake, but it pulled out with a single-length sling. Probably needed a triple-length. Mar 12, 2009
I side more with a 5.5 rating. There are two sections you just have to lay back the flake and use friction on the face. The top section also will not protect with a #3 as the beta says. You need at least a #5, but it can be run out fairly easily. Mar 3, 2008
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
 
for the grade, you just can't beat this route

I personally make a point to climb it every time I go to E-rock Jun 29, 2007