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War and Peace

5.9+, Sport,  Avg: 2.8 from 435 votes
FA: Dawn Shimberg, 1993
New Hampshire > Rumney > Bonsai

Description

War and Peace is a steep haul on schist jugs that finishes in/around a thought-provoking corner made by a distinct fin of rock. If you want to be gawhuffed at by aging locals, add the sit-start (maybe V2) in a small cave that involves a heel-hook and a foot cutting traverse move (look for the chalked holds by your knees).

Location

This route neighbors Masterpiece on the steep main wall of Bonsai. War and Peace is one of the first climbs you encounter if you approached from below.

Protection

Bolts. Quick clip anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

War and Peace :: 5.9
[Hide Photo] War and Peace :: 5.9

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
[Hide Comment] Is it to the right or left of Masterpiece? Jun 21, 2007
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] It is to the right of Masterpiece, Michael... Jun 21, 2007
[Hide Comment] A really good route for the grade. Jugs everywhere...where to grab?? It gets pumpy fast! The last moves are sweet, exposed, aesthetic. Great climb that would be better if it were on any other wall. It's kind of overshadowed by its neighbors (and always a bit wet, it seems). Not much harder when wet. Dec 1, 2007
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] actually, the aging locals probably did the sit start before you started climbing, LOL, so won't laugh at the idea. Nov 16, 2008
Dan Flynn
Northeast mostly
 
[Hide Comment] I found it to be wetter and sketchier, and not necessarily easier, than Masterpiece. Jun 20, 2010
nataliejwong
Toronto, Canada
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The start is a tricky bouldering move, but once you get it, the rest of the route is good. The last part of the route was a bit tough, not sure if it's the crux. Did a super high hand-foot match to get to the anchors, it might be different for someone who's taller with a longer reach. Aug 30, 2010
Sean Godwin
Vancouver, BC
[Hide Comment] Guidebooks says it's the wettest route at Bonsai - can someone elaborate? Is mid-april too early to expect to climb this? Thanks! Mar 21, 2011
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Sean, it is wet until mid summer. Also after any rain it stays wet for about a week. The drainage for the cliff runs right over this route. It is truly a tragedy. Mar 21, 2011
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
[Hide Comment] I feel like every time I've climbed this route it has looked soaking, but every key hold has been dry. The clips are safe and the holds are big, It's worth getting on even if it looks wet as there's a good chance it's dry, and if not....it's still a blast Mar 21, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.9
[Hide Comment] My experience with this route has been similar to Erik's. Looks wet but climbs dry if you watch where you place your hands and feet. And somewhat a similar experience with Jug Line (but more pumpy) to the right of this route.
Enjoy. Mar 22, 2011
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
[Hide Comment] The final moves into the corner were first climbed by the route Bombs Away. We TR'd W&P but thought it was to wet to bother bolting. Oct 29, 2012
Z D
Salt Lake City
 
[Hide Comment] Masterpiece and Centerpiece were both wet up top today but this one stayed dry in between the crucial holds...enough so to the point where it didn't really matter what was wet. Plenty of big dry feet to choose from. Felt harder and better than Masterpiece for me. A great day starter, and tons of unique movement. Jul 18, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Now equipped with all glue-in bolts altho one up high on the route seems to be in an inconvenient place for easy clipping. Aug 2, 2015
Nick Grant
Tamworth, NH
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Dan Flynn had it right ten years ago: This route (War and Peace, 5.9+) seems a bit harder than its ladder-like neighbor, Masterpiece (5.10a). Oct 21, 2018
George L.
Sharon, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Cool route, I think better than its neighbor, Masterpiece. Be careful to follow the bolts, it is easy after (I think) the 3rd bolt to keep climbing up and right instead of traversing left under a bulge where the bolt is. I didn't find this route to be sketchy or wet, and we climbed right after several rainy days. Jul 6, 2021