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All Locations > California > Redwood Coast > Patrick's Point… > Ceremonial Rock > South and West Faces of Ceremonial Rock

The Edge Route

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British


 Avg: 2.7 from 10 votes

Routes in South and West Faces of Ceremonial Rock

Ceremonial Traverse V0 4
Christian's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Edge Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Frank Jager, Bruce Price 1968
Page Views: 1,366 total · 9/month
Shared By: Rick Shull on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Work your way up steepening terrain placing gear where you can find it. A few vertical face moves get you through the crux. There is a bolt at the crux from the first ascent that can be clipped for "decoration". This is one of the routes Royal Robbins repeated in '69.

Location

The Edge climbs the far left side(edge) of the west face. Walk off the lookout trail.

Protection

Nuts and cams, screamer for the bolt. Newer bolt anchor. Bring long slings to toprope.

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Top of the "Edge".
Top of the "Edge".
 0
The Edge route follows the left skyline. The roofs to the right have various top rope options including a fun 5.11.
The Edge route follows the left skyline. The ro…
 0

5 Comments

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jon vandub
westminster,co
jon vandub   westminster,co
this route needs a long directional to keep you from swinging around the corner....very fun!!! Apr 4, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.8
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8
I led it onsight. It protected well up to the bolt at the crux. Above the crux I got in a big cam (#3) although it might have wedged out a big block had I fallen, and a sling around a horn. The final 20' or so is runout but easy (like 5.3). It had some fun moves. A bit stiff for 5.7. Jul 30, 2013
Morganser
 
Morganser  
 
I followed on this route and found it was great for practicing beginner techniques, especially because it took a bit of improvisation Feb 9, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.8
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.8
The original 5.7 stays right and skips the steeper section above the fern and goes up the easier lower angle terrain out right before cutting over at the bolt. It is 5.8 if you follow the close to the arete. Very fun! Jun 15, 2015
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
  5.8 PG13
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
  5.8 PG13
great warm up for price crack. A small offset cam makes this route safer, a tad runout without it. lots of variation you can do! Jul 3, 2015

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