Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

True Penitence

5.11a, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 36 votes
FA: Jim DiNapoli, '84, Sam Lightner, Jr., '87
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon

Description

This is a stellar, burly route. I love goading young, aspiring trad climbers to get onto it. If you're in the canyon and a short, napolean-complex guy with male-pattern-baldness tries to talk you into climbing it, then it's probably me.

Location

Just past the Virgin painting, where the canyon makes a bend to the right. This is the wide crack formed by the large egg-shaped bolder leaning against the main canyon wall.

Protection

Gear to #4 Camalot. I know it looks like #3s, but trust me!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Drew Herder at the top of True Penitence.
<br>

<br>
Photo by Will McKay.
[Hide Photo] Drew Herder at the top of True Penitence. Photo by Will McKay.
Good stems.
[Hide Photo] Good stems.
Peter fighting up into the 5s.
[Hide Photo] Peter fighting up into the 5s.
Drew Herder scraping his body in True Penitence.
<br>

<br>
Photo by Will McKay.
[Hide Photo] Drew Herder scraping his body in True Penitence. Photo by Will McKay.
Awful photo to show the steepness.
[Hide Photo] Awful photo to show the steepness.
Start the business.
[Hide Photo] Start the business.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mason Earle
USA
 
[Hide Comment] Is this that steep, laser-cut corner crack? If so, I got on this thing thinking it was wide hands- I ended up getting worked trying to do do kick-throughs/ bumping handstacks up the whole thing. OW all the way. Bring a (new) #5 Camalot for the top. Hightops, pants, long sleeve shirt highly recomended. Six stars. Sep 12, 2007
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Awesome route!!! Bring Camalots: 1-#2 with a shoulder runner, 3-#4, 1-#5, and 1-#6. One of the best ticks anywhere. Jun 1, 2009
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] If this is what I think it is, then I was told, back in the '80s, I got the F.A. However, that was like '87, not '84, so if the info is right, then I am wrong. For what it's worth, I called it "Vogon Poetry". Jul 3, 2012
Devin Fin
Parts unknown
[Hide Comment] Tape!!!! This thing will feast on exposed flesh.... 1 #2 2#4 2#5 that's it. Oh, an' pack a lunch because this bitch pig is steep! Oct 18, 2012
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] One of the best in the canyon if you got the gear! A true six star crack climb. Apr 8, 2018
Darren Smith
Mancos, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Agree with Devin Fin for pro (1 #2, 2#4s, 2#5s, that's it). I love offwidth but didn't really like this climb, because it is mostly a layback due to the reasonable feet (with occasional stacks). Jun 22, 2020
Wes O'Rourke
South Fork
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Classic trad route for the SLV. Difficult and baggy #4s up to #5. Hard to find the right stemming position, but once you do, you can lock it in! One of the canyon's burliest ticks! May 19, 2021
A Lee
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] I've stubbornly avoided the stem and have always tried to go straight-in, but the stem seems to be the ticket. Packs a punch for how short it is. It's laser cut - protect your ankles! The most splitter crack in the canyon for sure... 5 star line!

One #2, two #4s, and one #5. I think one #6 is nice for the top, but it's not necessary. Aug 2, 2021