PRINT: Rock Climb True Penitence, San Luis Valley

True Penitence

5.11a, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 36 votes
FA: Jim DiNapoli, '84, Sam Lightner, Jr., '87
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon

Description

This is a stellar, burly route. I love goading young, aspiring trad climbers to get onto it. If you're in the canyon and a short, napolean-complex guy with male-pattern-baldness tries to talk you into climbing it, then it's probably me.

Location

Just past the Virgin painting, where the canyon makes a bend to the right. This is the wide crack formed by the large egg-shaped bolder leaning against the main canyon wall.

Protection

Gear to #4 Camalot. I know it looks like #3s, but trust me!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Drew Herder at the top of True Penitence.
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Photo by Will McKay.

Drew Herder at the top of True Penitence. Photo by Will McKay.

Good stems.

Peter fighting up into the 5s.

Drew Herder scraping his body in True Penitence.
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<br>
Photo by Will McKay.

Drew Herder scraping his body in True Penitence. Photo by Will McKay.

Awful photo to show the steepness.

Start the business.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mason Earle
USA

Is this that steep, laser-cut corner crack? If so, I got on this thing thinking it was wide hands- I ended up getting worked trying to do do kick-throughs/ bumping handstacks up the whole thing. OW all the way. Bring a (new) #5 Camalot for the top. Hightops, pants, long sleeve shirt highly recomended. Six stars. Sep 12, 2007

Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM

5.10+

Awesome route!!! Bring Camalots: 1-#2 with a shoulder runner, 3-#4, 1-#5, and 1-#6. One of the best ticks anywhere. Jun 1, 2009

Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY

If this is what I think it is, then I was told, back in the '80s, I got the F.A. However, that was like '87, not '84, so if the info is right, then I am wrong. For what it's worth, I called it "Vogon Poetry". Jul 3, 2012

Devin Fin
Parts unknown

Tape!!!! This thing will feast on exposed flesh.... 1 #2 2#4 2#5 that's it. Oh, an' pack a lunch because this bitch pig is steep! Oct 18, 2012

Anus Herder
Colona, CO

5.11a

One of the best in the canyon if you got the gear! A true six star crack climb. Apr 8, 2018

Darren Smith
Mancos, CO

Agree with Devin Fin for pro (1 #2, 2#4s, 2#5s, that's it). I love offwidth but didn't really like this climb, because it is mostly a layback due to the reasonable feet (with occasional stacks). Jun 22, 2020

Wes O'Rourke
South Fork

5.11b

Classic trad route for the SLV. Difficult and baggy #4s up to #5. Hard to find the right stemming position, but once you do, you can lock it in! One of the canyon's burliest ticks! May 19, 2021

A Lee

5.11-

I've stubbornly avoided the stem and have always tried to go straight-in, but the stem seems to be the ticket. Packs a punch for how short it is. It's laser cut - protect your ankles! The most splitter crack in the canyon for sure... 5 star line!

One #2, two #4s, and one #5. I think one #6 is nice for the top, but it's not necessary. Aug 2, 2021