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X

5.8, Trad, TR,  Avg: 2.6 from 25 votes
FA: unknown
Minnesota > Blue Mounds SP… > Prairie Walls Area > 9. Chimney Buttress

Description

X is the crack route at the right edge of Chimney Buttress's large roof. Start up the left side of the crack eventually moving to its right side. Continue over the small roof (crux) and up on easier terrain.

Protection

Very protectable with nuts, medium to small cams, and hexes for the old schoolers or use a standard Blue Mounds toprope (long slings helpful).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

leading up X
[Hide Photo] leading up X
JL climbing X on a nice day
[Hide Photo] JL climbing X on a nice day
On lead during a hot summer day.
[Hide Photo] On lead during a hot summer day.
X, Y, Z, and Neil.
[Hide Photo] X, Y, Z, and Neil.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tyson Arp
Omaha, NE
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I think this is a little harder than 5.7. I noticed last time I lead it that the footholds are much more polished than they used to be, so I can't see changing the rating from the original 5.8+ to 5.7. Feb 16, 2007
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Where did you find an "original" rating of 5.8+? Compared to other 5.7s at Blue Mounds I don't think it's any more difficult and the feet are solid. Mar 8, 2007
Tyson Arp
Omaha, NE
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] By "original" I am referring to the rating in the first guidebook for the park called "Prairie Walls" by Don Hynek & Eric Landmann. This book was published in 1989 and reprinted in 1993. Since then, ratings have been changed for many routes in the newer guidebooks that include Blue Mounds. Interestingly, however, most ratings have been bumped up recently and not down. Yes, it may not be an 8+, but I do think it is harder than Obvious Crack and Old Stump which are both 7's. Mar 8, 2007
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Ah, I've looked through the Hynek & Landmann guidebook before but don't own it. Regarding the overall grades at BM I've always felt they were definitely "old school".....a 5.9 here is usually a 5.10 elsewhere. Mar 9, 2007
[Hide Comment] fun climb! i would have to rate it at a 5.8 as well. significantly more difficult than other 5.7s at this crag. good protection, but wish i had some smaller nuts than what i brought up Sep 6, 2010
[Hide Comment] Nice lead with good pro. Bring a set of nuts for the numerous constrictions in the crack. Cams in the .75" to 1" range are also useful. Jan 13, 2012