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Routes in Observatory Wall (Upper Tier)

Airbus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Goodnight Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
La Naris S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lichening The Serpent S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Luna Lumina T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Solar Eclipse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
You're Scaring the Horses S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Josh Gross and Aaron Miller
Page Views: 662 total, 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Location

This is the right most crack on the headwall. To start, ascend to Observatory Ledge via several options. Climb Space Shuttle to the anchors, then up another 15' to the Observatory Ledge right anchors. Alternatively, look for a wide crack (10-) just left of Space Shuttle which might be a bit dirty or loose. Follow this pitch to ledges and traverse up and right to a nice 2 bolt belay above a large block stance the furthest right on the Observatory Ledge. Choose the right most belay for Luna Lumina.

From here, up and right through two bolts to the slab, then up to a thin crack just off the arete. Good mix of face and tips up great rock.

As of 2010, there are some bolts from Skyline Arete that have impinged on this route and are somewhat clippable from the crack. The first ascent party did not use these bolts to climb this crack free and so you shouldn't either. But the pucker-factor may sway you to the dark side once you are into the tips-madness. These bolts may be adjusted in the near future to keep us all honest.

Luna Lumina (see route 19 on photo)

A tips splitter on upper headwall to the right of Goodnight Moon. Beautiful tips climbing through multiple sustained cruxes with an airy face traverse left where the first crack tapers.

To reach Observatory Ledge, climb Space Shuttle to anchors, then up another 15' feet to Observatory Ledge-Right anchors. From here, the climb heads up right past 2 bolts on steep terrain to thin tips crack and face climbing.

Protection

Bring a few zero cams and small(not micro) wires and a few finger to hand sizes up to #3 Camalots. Single 60m rope works well.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
Space Shuttle seems the best approach, it goes directly to the belay anchors. One could also do the best part of Luna Lumina by starting on the first few bolts of The Skyline Arete, after climbing KSR to approach its belay station.

When the splitter tips crack ends and you have to step left to the next thin crack, it's pretty committing.

I didn't clip The Skyline Arete bolts, but they were kind of tempting and within reach. The crack is near-perfect parallel, so the tiny cams (#0 TCU size) are as as good as they get. But they're still not bolts.

For what little it's worth, my vote is against chopping or moving the Skyline Arete bolts, at least any significant amount. That climb is really cool, even though it uses the Luna Lumina crack for a few moves (at least, I did). I don't think it's a big deal, if you wuss out on Luna Lumina, you know it. Jul 13, 2013