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Routes in The Frigate

Bowspirit T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Can Can T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Code of the Sea TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Dutchman T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Frigate "walk off" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Galleass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jasek's Project T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jib, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pooper, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stern, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed route 20 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: TR
FA: David Groth 94
Page Views: 1,286 total, 9/month
Shared By: David A Groth on Oct 25, 2006
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Thin, technical face left of The Pooper. Start off a block.

Protection

Toprope?
Tradiban
  5.12a PG13
Tradiban  
  5.12a PG13
The topo line is slightly off in Jay's book. His line comes in from the left but I think it's more straight up. Sep 24, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Wow Jon, those are nice photos too! I love the facial expressions, and the Fall light.

Nick, you came pretty close to needing that helmet! Oct 31, 2011
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
A few pictures of Rhoads are up on my blog;
climbs2high.blogspot.com/20…
I had to leave before the send, so only pictures up to his fall.
click on the photo for larger detail. Oct 31, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12a PG13
Tradiban  
  5.12a PG13
Yes, I led it and it protects well. A purple C3 is crucial to protect the mantle in the middle of the route.

At the start place gear as far right as possible in the horizontal, if you blow the first crux you will take a huge swing but will live. I reached way left at the start to a nice side pull but figured out later it's less reachy to go straight up off good underclings. I whipped previously from the mantle move and the last move, the falls are pretty big but safe with double ropes. Oct 29, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a
Awesome route! The top crux is really good, and I think it helps to have small fingers.
Rhoads also pulled off an exciting lead! Oct 29, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12a PG13
Tradiban  
  5.12a PG13
This thing is stellar except for the most definitely reachy final move. I can do it statically at 6ft tall. Oct 7, 2011
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
  5.12c
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
  5.12c
Also, does anyone know if this has ever been led? Sep 23, 2011
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
  5.12c
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
  5.12c
I'm going to have to agree with Alex on this being quite a bit harder than 5.12a, at least the way I did it (or did I do "Pooper varition, 5.12c/d"). I started as for Pooper and went straight up instead of doing the thin traverse right you do on Pooper. I went pretty much straight up from there and finished about 4-5 feet left of the chimney on the ledge level with and only a few inches right of the mini-roof under the summit block. I felt like the crux was the absolute last move to the top. Sep 18, 2011
Alex A
  5.12c/d
Alex A  
  5.12c/d
WOW Dave 5.12a is a sandbag, even for D.L. would say 5.12c, vary thin and technical Nov 25, 2009
Tradiban
  5.12a PG13
Tradiban  
  5.12a PG13
According to Sven "Start from block 10-12 ft up and left of crack on Pooper. Climb overhanging face to top, staying left of Pooper.

The Pooper variation is listed at 5.12c/d and goes..."At triangular niche, continue straight up near center of face." Aug 8, 2009