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The Equalizer
5.13 R,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 4 from 7
votes
FA: Craig Smith- June 1986
Arizona
> Northern Arizona
> Sycamore Canyon
> Paradise Forks
> Davidson Wall
Access Issue: Access Issue: Seasonal Nesting Bird Closures:
Details
All routes on the Wild Wall will be CLOSED for nesting owls March 1st - August 31st.
Please avoid this area during this time to allow the owls to nest undisturbed. Note: Intentionally disturbing protected species is a Federal and State crime.
The following routes on The Prow & Gold Wall will be closed April 1st - August 31st:
"Sail Away"
"Mutiny on the Bounty"
"The Prow"
"Americans at Arapiles"
"Crow's Nest"
"Powderfingers"
"Yardarm"
"Cheeseball"
"Shittn' Bricks" (on the Gold Wall)
The USFS will be frequently monitoring the Peregrine Falcons so that they can open areas as soon as possible. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of the entire walls or crags, and we ask that climbers adhere to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org or the US Forest Service (Kaibab National Forest) @ (928) 635-8200 and ask to speak with the Wildlife Biologist.
Description
The Equalizer has been a test piece for generations, and was THEE hard route to do at the Forks for three decades. This line features bouldery climbing on pretty generous holds, with a dash of decent gear. It’s a strikingly clean line with wide open air.
Start by a large boulder with a bit of face climbing into a small left facing corner. From here stem, slap, deadpoint, and keep your head together. Very sustained and bouldery. Other known leads by Johnny Woodward, John Mattson, Matt Childers, and Ty Mack placing gear on the run. Brilliant and demanding climbing!
Location
A couple of systems right of Paradise Lost.
Protection
![Setting up for the crux tips lock.]()
[Hide Photo] Setting up for the crux tips lock.
![Front-on view of the hard Davidson wall routes.
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Yellow: Paradise Lost; Green: The Equalizer; Blue: Watusi]()
[Hide Photo] Front-on view of the hard Davidson wall routes. Yellow: Paradise Lost; Green: The Equalizer; Blue: Watusi
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I lead it in June '86. As far as I am aware this was the first lead. I placed all the gear on the lead and did it ground up. Russel Eriksson and Hassan Saab belayed me if you need any confirmation. I think I may even have some pics of the first ascent somewhere.
I think Jonny did it after me.
All the best,
Craig May 25, 2010
Flagstaff AZ
I honestly can't remember!
What I can remember is facing left maybe laybacking around a small roof...or did I imagine this. If you have a picture of the route you could send me it might jog my memory. I do remember soem photos of the FFA, but I'm buggered if I can find them. Dec 10, 2018
Troy, NY