Type: Trad
FA: TM Herbert, Steve Roper, May 1963.
Page Views: 6,340 total · 43/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


This corner is just a little uphill from Little John.
Liback the corner to a ledge.


Pro to 1.5".


Rodger Raubach
  5.10a PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a PG13
A really great technique builder! The inital lieback right off the ground is pretty slippery, and a fall here before getting a piece plugged in could result in broken ankles. Fun, but be careful! Definitely 5.9+ or 5.10a PG13. Jul 23, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
It's a lieback, so, yeah, pro can be strenuous to place. However, there is plenty of pro placements available on this route, so I don't see adding PG13 to a well-protected lieback route or we'd have to call almost every lieback PG13. 5.9, period. Feb 3, 2011
Rodger Raubach
  5.10a PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a PG13
My impression of the PG13 is simply a cautionary statement, and that lets some of the noobs know that this isn't a pitch to be taken that lightly. Yeah, most liebacks are probably PG13, but it also depends on the leader's experience in placing pro and the reservoir of strength available. I didn't have any trouble placing any pro, but thought that others might... Mar 23, 2011
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
Solid pro the whole way. You can sew the lower (crux) section with as much gear as you can place (providing you feet don't slip). Great Climb! May 18, 2011
It doesn't have to be a slippery layback; it can also be done just as easily as a straight up crack climb - better for gear placements too. It's an honest 5.9 with good gear and rests along the way (not 5.10 IMO). Definitely fun! Jul 29, 2011
Oakland, CA
thecornyman   Oakland, CA
1st go plugged an orange tcu and slipped and pulled it for a ground fall. Second go it went free. I agree that you shouldn't add a pg 13 for a slippery start. It's a valley 9 for a reason. I climbed it as a straight in crack and felt that was easier for placing pro. Aug 8, 2011
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
I was baffled by all the 5.9 rates of this climb. Not 5.9+, just run of the mill 5.9. I can see why the 5.11 and 5.12 leaders thought this was 5.9. Most of the raters do not give their ability and whether they lead this climb, onsight or otherwise. I really don't care what number you give this route, it is what it is, and 5.9 routes like this are not uncommon in my limited Yose experience. In fact most areas have climbs like this, usually with the dreaded + designation. But there will be extremely few 5.9 leaders that can do this onsight (it is straight forward).

For those that put faith in safety ratings, a word of caution is in order. The route protects very well. But the chance of an ankle injuring fall is quite good until you can get a piece in high enough to protect getting to your 2nd or 3rd placement. There is a world of difference between making a 5.9 move and putting pro in while in a 5.9 stance on lead. Sep 16, 2012
Classic Yosemite 5.9. I really think that Supertopo is screwing people by calling the beginning of this thing a lieback. Stand at the bottom, sink a couple finger locks and then see if it still feels like a lieback.
It won't.
Straight in all the way!
Watched a dude lead it after me and he peeled off whilst liebacking the start, ripped his first piece, and busted his ass on the talus. Looked way strenuous.
Awesome climb! Mar 31, 2013
Agreed with YosemiteSam, if you sink in the finger locks rather then lieback, it would be a lot more secure. My foot blew once or twice but the locks were super bomber. Oct 21, 2013
David Dennis
High Sierra
David Dennis   High Sierra
The corner is pretty greasy, but the start on this can definitely be climbed straight in as a finger crack. Perfect locks up to a nice pod, gear wherever you want it, just jam that left foot in the corner and smear with your right. Fun climb! I thought the moves exiting the roof higher up were more strenuous/thought-provoking. Apr 1, 2014
5.9 when it went in slamming pins...5.9 when I led it in '76 with stoppers....5.9 now with cams...It is a Mega-Classic short Yosemite Valley crack with a rich history...and the locks (finger size dependent) are bomber...but...those feetsies are a tad slick, right?! If you come this far , then you just gotta take a lap on it...it's an old school gem. Mar 31, 2015
Michael Dom
Michael Dom  
Good climb, plug and go. Or just go. Dec 13, 2015
Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
Jam this thing! Layback is weak. Oct 15, 2016
churro morales  
I thought this route was not that bad, the first 10 feet are slippery (but well protected) after that its pretty much cruising up with great pro the whole way. I wish this route was longer, but it was great. I definitely think if you are a 5.9 leader you can onsight this if you can get up 10 feet. After that great locks and feet everywhere. May 2, 2018