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Routes in Area 13 - Center

Bread Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chilango S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cholito S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chop Chop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get Tuff S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Left Turn S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pachuco S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Candy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scorpio T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jim Reed, Early 1990s.
Page Views: 1,971 total, 15/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Lots of fun easy/moderate moves in the usual Clark Canyon. Variation 2 makes the fun go on longer.

At the left end of this sector is a bit 20-foot-high rock with a 5-foot-wide platform below its right side.

Many people start by scrambling to the top of the big rock, where there is two-bolt anchor. Belaying from there reduces rope drag and makes communication much easier.

Then up the cool face past 7 bolts to anchor, and lower-off to platform below right from big rock.

Variation 1: The start in the print guidebook is to go up the awkward dihedral on right side of the big rock to reach the anchor on top - (5.8, 1 bolt).

Variation 2: Start instead far below the left side of the big rock, in a steep gully at the right end of the Left Side sector, next to the route "I Am". Up the gully at first steep (5.7, 1 bolt), then gentle to reach the anchor on top of big rock.
. . (Not sure how well-protected this is -- could also be done on top-rope).

Protection

Draws. 7 bolts.

Photos

kenr  
The alternate start from below left is rather fun. Not harder than 5.7.

I think there's only one bolt protecting it (borrowed from the neighboring route "I Yam"?). Not sure how much that helps, since I tried it on TR, lowered in from the anchor on top of the rock.
. . (Not sure if could supplement that with a long sling through a hole in the rock?)

I think Alistair is right that the start given in the print guidebook is the awkward dihedral on the right side of the rock (which I have tried - (first bolt is a bit high, and the landing underneath is unfriendly).

But it's hard to resist just scrambling up onto the rock to reach the two-bolt anchor on top. Oct 26, 2017
Alistair Veitch
Mountain View, CA
  5.7
Alistair Veitch   Mountain View, CA
  5.7
Guidebook shows this starting on the right, along with Bread Line. If you go that way, it makes it 5.8 (after the start, it's easy 5.7 at best, but nice climbing). I didn't do the variation starting from the left. Oct 17, 2017
Gen King
  5.7 PG13
Gen King  
  5.7 PG13
Jugs on jugs on jugs. Super fun climb. I feel like 5.8 is not accurrate- definitely a 5.7. Or maybe they are rating it 5.8 if you try it off the ground instead of climbing up to the boulder and starting off of it? Really good protection, anchor is back from rock so you have a shelf to get yourself on before setting it up. And the views? Amazing. Aug 20, 2015
Chase Roskos
Golden, CO
  5.7+
Chase Roskos   Golden, CO
  5.7+
The only moves on this that felt anywhere near 5.8 were right at the belay anchor and possibly .5-.6 the entire way after that. 5.7+ tops for this climb. May 9, 2009
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
This route feels more 5.7 than 5.8. Oct 24, 2006