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Routes in The Owl

Dromedary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mirage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Owl Bypass, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Owl Roof T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Walrus, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wicked Jones Crusher T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: FA (using chockstone placed by Bridwell): Tom Higgins, 1973. FFA (chockstone removed): Dale Bard, by 1977
Page Views: 3,436 total · 24/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is the wide crack that splits the roof at the top of The Owl.

Protection

Pro to 6".

Photos

Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
While it appears that this is wide all the way, it actually tapers inside very quickly and is basically a fist crack until maybe 2' from the end of the roof. Blue, gray, and purple camalots, with an optional 5" or 6" piece. May 23, 2010
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Lots of great history in this thread

supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Apr 12, 2011
FA(using chockstone placed by Bridwell): Tom Higgins, 1973
FFA(chockstone removed): Dale Bard, [not Jardine], by 1977 Jan 7, 2012
Evan Wisheropp
  5.12c
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.12c
There is a lot of mystery and misinformation about the route out there. I would say your best option is to just get up there and give it a go. Will's gear list is good. Bringing a few extra #3s will keep the rope up in the crack and out of your way, followed by a #4 and old #4. A #5 isn't great, but a #6 is the best way to keep your head from smacking the slab if you fall right after the crux. Place gear attentively or you'll be in for an unpleasant surprise while trying to top out. Regardless, cleaning and getting off of the top is a pain. Dec 3, 2016
Louis Mullerleile
Sacramento, California
Louis Mullerleile   Sacramento, California
After you crush this thing, down aiding is best option imo, then rapping. Jan 16, 2017

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