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Routes in Area 13 - Left Side

A Danger to Ourselves and Others T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bodhisattva S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Borrowing From Tradition S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapusero S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chupacabras S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digit Delight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drop Zone S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exqueeze Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Yam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
IEPA! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mobetta Fogetta S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Trad Than Rad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Now and Zen S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Ain't No Weenie Roast S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Many Princesses S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Will's Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Hirahara, late 90s
Page Views: 6,133 total, 45/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This excellent 5.7, climbs up stacked blocks, then step left on to an arete, and follow it to the anchors.

Protection

Nine bolts, double mussy hook anchor
Worked up the courage to lead this. Counted 7 out of 9 bolt hangers that were spinners or wiggly; however, anchor looked brand new. Sep 27, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
ROFL. My old bro Alan put this up. Good on 'ya matey. Best, John. Jun 25, 2017
Vit
Vit  
Both mussy hooks are good as of July 2013. A few spinners - 5th, 7th and 8th I think. Jul 11, 2013
Brian Kimball
Yosemite National Park, CA
 
Brian Kimball   Yosemite National Park, CA
 
Don't climb this without checking out the anchors with some binoculars. As of April 2013, both mussy hooks were broken and the left-behind biner looked pretty sketchy. We told some locals who said they knew a guy who could fix this. Hopefully they passed on the message! Have fun and stay safe. May 15, 2013
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
Haha! That biner is still up there to back the broken mussy hook. It is showing signs of wear. Oct 20, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.7
C Miller   CA  
  5.7
Long, exposed and lots of fun - get on it! Sep 29, 2011
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
The 3rd and 5th hangers are loose and spin. It also looks like there was a bolt inbetween the 3rd and 4th that pulled out. And someone left a biner at the top on the quicklink with the broken mussy. Super fun route and pretty good exposure on the arĂȘte. Aug 17, 2010
the spring/hook is broken on the right mussy hook on this route.

otherwise a super fun climb. May 20, 2010
Chase Roskos
Golden, CO
  5.7
Chase Roskos   Golden, CO
  5.7
This route is excellent. Best 5.7 I've climbed yet. If you TRing and enjoy the top, try a direct start. May 7, 2009
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.7
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.7
What up Alan! I lived in Mammoth for years, we met through Scott a couple times, I love the name of this climb! you've obviously been drinking at the clock tower once or twice! LOL... bolting that cliff was great, gives a great place to bring all the "queens" climbing after drunken promises... Apr 24, 2009