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Routes in 2nd Meat Wall

At Your Cervix T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bacon in the Sun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boss Hog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Butcher's Dog T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camping Under the Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnivore T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cube Steaks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
End Of The Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evening Ecstacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Extra Lean T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Home Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gouge On It T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Eggs & Ham T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Pork Sundae T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Humble Pie T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Idaho Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Low Cholesterol T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Cows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Your Maker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Meat ya later T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Meating Jesus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mouse Meat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ninja Bedwetter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pastafarian, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pleased To Meat You T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Potato, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Samarai Loving T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sesh One Cooking T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smell the Meat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soylent Green T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Swedish meat balls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweet Meats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Switch, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
T-Bones Tonight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tofu Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Sirloin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tube Steaks Tomorrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Two Timer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Timer II T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Unknown R of Tube Steaks T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown long corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,223 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A good climb with some interesting flake climbing. The top half is more typical of Indian Creek- being a shallow corner with a great hand-jams section.
Start up the right edge of a huge flake, perhaps 15 meters tall. IT is shaped somewhat abstractly like the state of Idaho, if you can imagine its proportion stretched in the north-to-south direction a few times over. Step left at the top of the flake and climb a shallow right-facing corner to the top, to a 2-bolt anchor just below a roof.
A single 70M rope will get you down with a few feet to spare.

Location

This route is as far east on the 2nd Meat Wall's South Side as you go- at the end of the trail and just aside a medium-large Juniper. A Plaque gives the name and grade at 5.10-. It is 10 meters left of Potato, which is in the Bloom guide.

Protection

A few thin spots in the flake down low make caution advisable while choosing gear placements, but there are certainly safe and valid options. Just be careful. Also take some slings- the flake undulates and the second half of the climb is behind a notch. Drag could be bad.
Take a mix of cams with a few extra of 3-3.5" for the top 1/2.

Photos

BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10
The name on the plaque at the base as of 3/11/07 is Meat Hucker and the grade given is 5.10-. Several of us felt the green camalot layback start was 5.10. It's definitely committing, as you are placing gear behind a sandstone flake, which is reasonably solid, but it's still a sandstone flake. Fun climb, worth doing if you visit this wall. Mar 12, 2007