Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cascade Falls - Left

Crimson Cringe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Filthy Rich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fish Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Press T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jug Monkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mud Shark T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Beyer, Janice Linhares, 1979.
Page Views: 2,123 total, 16/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The beginning is a flare, but is almost all beautiful handjams. I would recommend this climb to anyone. A great moderate crack climb for beginners.

Climb a 5.7 flared chimney to a belay.

Continue up for a 5.8 pitch, passing double cracks and two roofs.

Protection

Pro to 3".

Location

Up left from the toe of the cliff.

Photos

Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
if this had 1 or 2 more stars in the supertopo, which i think it deserves, would be much more popular.

Admin should combine the listing for this route that's under pat and jack with this one. it makes much more sense for it to be listed here, under Cascade Left. Oct 31, 2017
sDawg  
I agree with Mark that my crux was getting out of the belay alcove and into the double cracks. The first roof is physical, but easy to read and well protected. Chris gives the impression that the final face is height-dependent. I disagree to a point. I'm 5'5'' and I was able to make the reaches. A good high step will earn you as much reach as being tall for this sequence. The face is easy, but with every piece slung out and having back-cleaned 2 from under the roofs to avoid drag, I still had moderate rope drag from the gulley and the tree. Do everything you can to minimize drag so you can get power on that face.

I was super worried about getting the rope stuck on such a wandering climb, but our only issue was with the stopper knots at the ends of the ropes. We used one 70m and could have done it in 2 raps, from the top to the first belay and then to the ground, but we chose to move to the tree 2/3 up the first pitch to avoid a stuck rope. May 2, 2016
michael s...
Denver, CO
michael s...   Denver, CO
Trailed a tag line and went as high as the blocky spire with all the slings on it. We tied two ropes together to set up a top-rope. A good time was had by all.

As the last person was going up, a dark cloud appeared accompanied by quite a bit of wind rustling debris around and distant booming. We made them come down and I ran up and cleaned the anchor and rappelled to the bottom. When pulling the ropes, with about 10 feet of rope hanging below the anchors it got completely and utterly stuck out of sight in a crack on the right. Decided to re-lead it right then (as opposed to just leaving it and coming back the next day) and saw that the very last bit of the rope had became wrapped completely around (360 degrees) a head-sized chockstone back in the crack.

Took 1/2 a second to flick the end back around, made a quick anchor, and tied the ropes together and wrapped down, and I was pulling the rope from the bottom I thought "well I'll just pull it slower and that'll make sure it comes down." Immediately after finishing that thought I noticed the rope wasn't pulling anymore. I looked up and saw the end disappearing into that same crack again. Damn. I am an idiot.

After much more pulling involving multiple people, I led it again, and of course, the end of the rope had done the same thing that got it stuck the first time. Not too excited about leading it for a fourth time, I stopped at the slung tree and pulled the rope, very very very slowly from there. Not allowing the tail to swing in the slightest as it raised towards the anchor. The crack was avoided and down it came.

This is a super-fun route. But beware the chockstone in the crack on the right towards the top. Hateful little bugger. Apr 20, 2015
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
 
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
 
I second Osprey's comments. There is a lot of great hand jamming on this route, and a beginner looking for some steep jamming should definitely get on this. There is plentiful gear for all of the tough spots except for the final move. I thought the last move reaching for the monster nob just above the small tree was the mental crux for sure. I'm 6' tall and couldn't make the spread. With no gear around and a balancy move, you don't want to mess up there. I was able to lead this in one 70m pitch but rope drag was an issue, as was communication with the falls so nearby. Fun way to do it though.

PS this is located in the Pat and Jack section of the Supertopo guidebook as the farthest right route. Mar 10, 2014
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.8+
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.8+
Maybe I climbed it wrong, but I found the crux to be entering the double cracks from the belay. It was pumpy, awkward, and hard! The 2 5.8 roofs are intimidating but go easily if you find the footholds on the face. Apr 5, 2011
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
The beginning is a flare, but is almost all beautiful handjams. I would recommend this climb to anyone. A great moderate crack climb for beginners. Apr 2, 2010