M Sprague New England

[Hide Comment] FA trad version (alternative start to Underdog): Mark Sprague (edit- It sounds like Bradley White did some version of this earlier , when the big block was still in the corner, and then probably finishing as for Ironman) FA sport version (added the top): Chris Smith Once the refrigerator sized block came out, I thought the bottom protected well with gear.. The bolts are very welcome though, especially as you can now do the top. Nov 9, 2006

L. Hamilton 5.10b

[Hide Comment] I agree, the old trad version had fine protection, and was "something different" amidst all the clip-ups. On the other hand, the new bolted finish is better. If Rumney were a less specialized area that could still tolerate mixed routes, Polly Purebred might have been a good one: bolts where needed, especially on the finish, but no retrobolts at the overhang where solid trad gear can be placed. Some of the other old moderates would likewise be more fun, but not necessarily more dangerous, if you had to carry and place a bit of gear to lead them. Nov 10, 2006

Lee Hansche Allenstown, NH... and a van…   5.10c

[Hide Comment] i like that it is now a nice independant line that gives me another warm up... and it does get me quite warm... i too would be happy to place some gear (people who know me know i love placing gear)... on a side note this line feels 5.10c to me most days (not the 10b the guide book suggests)... Jan 29, 2008

MattWallace Center Harbor, NH   5.10c

[Hide Comment] Any word on the condition of this anchor now? Jun 13, 2009

Todd Anderson Santa Fe, NM

[Hide Comment] I didn't notice any glaring problems with the anchor today, but confess I wasn't actively looking for them, not having seen this page before. On a side note, my friend (whom I was belaying) somehow missed the bolt on the first crux, and by the time he was at the next bolt he had the rope wrapped around his leg so he would have flipped over if he fell (I yelled at him about the rope, but I didn't see the crux bolt either). We didn't realize there was another bolt there until he finished the climb. I guess the take-home message is that if Polly seems run-out, you're doing something wrong. Jun 6, 2011

Matt Wilson Vermont, USA

[Hide Comment] I felt like this was runout at the crux... I ended up climbing in to the nook rest above the crux, terribly out of breath (apparently I don't breath when I climb hard), and then reaching around the corner to clip my next bolt. I don't even want to think about the fall that would have been had I stayed out of the nook and fell at the next clip.... But then again, I am a giant pansy when I lead, so maybe it's not really run out. Sep 24, 2012

Jeffrey LeCours New Hampshire

[Hide Comment] More common is to fall while trying to get into the notch, which is a perfectly clean fall. Wedging yourself into the notch will give you a comfortable no hands rest. It's also quite easy to use a knee bar in that area too. I thought protection was right where you'd want it. Sep 24, 2012

S. Neoh 5.10c

[Hide Comment] Both anchors seem fine today. Such a fine route. Good amount of exposure just after the crux and before the comfy ledge. The slab above was surprisingly technical for me with some holds "facing the wrong way". Nicely bolted, to be expected for a Smitty route. May 4, 2013

Nick Grant Tamworth, NH   5.10c

[Hide Comment] The 5.10b rating in the guidebook seems a tad low. Underclinging with the fingertips and making that l-o-n-g left-handed reach around the corner seems at least 10c to me. Aug 3, 2013

S. Neoh 5.10c

[Hide Comment] Nick, I am short (5'5") and that long move always give me pause. That said, I feel that SPP is as hard as Millennium Falcon but a tad easier than Peer Pressure. The route that I feel under graded is Romancing The Stone. It is always a struggle for me. Aug 3, 2013

E thatcher Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)

[Hide Comment] Hey Nick, sounds like you've had a rad tour of Rumney's classics recently. right on. The way you describe doing the crux on SPP indeed sounds hard. I think with some refinement through that crux you'd find it more appropriate at the grade. Similarly, there is an in obvious way to do the final upper section that makes it casual. I'll spare the inter webs my beta spray, but if you want an idea of another way to get through that crux drop me a PM. If you hang out at main cliff long enough I'm sure you'll be able to witness some better beta as well. best. Aug 4, 2013

Harrison Harb Portland   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] this and Know Ethics might be the best 10's at Rumney. Very high on the flow factor. Dec 4, 2013

john strand southern colo

[Hide Comment] Remember, Nick is quite old..even older than me . Dec 4, 2013

S. Neoh 5.10c

[Hide Comment] How is that even possible? :) No worries, Nick, we past-our-prime kind still find ways to get up steep Rumney routes .... but only because we are crafty. :) Eric, Coach Paul, SteveA, even Al(!) still show up and not embarrass ourselves too badly. Dec 4, 2013

Torie Kidd Concord, NH

[Hide Comment] Today was my first time doing the route, so I'm not sure if this was new or one of those things that's always been that way... On the traverse to the right, after the crux, I found one of the jugs (it was kind of fin shaped) to be loose (I'm relatively light and it made a grinding sound and moved). My feet were okay and there were other options for hands, so I was able to get off it asap. Either way, I had an enjoyable time on the climb. Jan 6, 2016

Jay Morse Hooksett, New Hampshire

[Hide Comment] A variation of this route can be done pretty safely on gear. Climb up to the ledge, then plug a piece in the weird pocket (Tricam was great) and extend. Then climb Underdog's first two bolts (no pro until after the 2nd bolt). Break right up the weakness (with plentiful gear) to meet up with Polly. After passing the first crux and gaining the rest flake, make an easy traverse over to Know Ethics and finish at those anchors. There is gear everywhere it matters and you can do the crux moves on a bomb #2 and #3 cam. If you are comfortable climbing Underdog's first two bolts with bad consequences, you'll find that the rest of this climb is quite safe. I suggest it! Apr 11, 2018

Luke Mertins Merrimack, NH   5.10c

[Hide Comment] Interesting and tricky crux on this. Very fun once you have the beta, otherwise makes for a nice little whip. May 6, 2018

Russ Keane Salt Lake

[Hide Comment] 10 stars. This thing is so sick. Jul 15, 2020

Dan Jentzen

[Hide Comment] Climbed it on 9/25/21. One of the rams horn hooks, for lowering off, is extremely worn and needs replacing. It’s the right hand one. Sep 28, 2021

Ted Burt Hanover, NH

[Hide Comment] I try to get on this route every summer. It's a classic route with one of my favorite moves on any climb is reaching around the block half way up. It has definitely become worn down with years of use. I used to think of this as easier than Underdog, the 10a next door, but now it has definitely earned its 10c grade with some extra shoe rubber. Aug 22, 2022