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Routes in Hear My Train A Comin' Boulder

Black Finger T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hear My Train A Comin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Razor's Edge TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V0+ 4+
Scream Seam TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Type: Trad, TR, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,117 total, 16/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Small boulder with a finger sized crack running through a black streak. Climb faces the road. The climb is very continuous but not very long.

Location

Just up the road from Hear My Train boulder (~50'). Get there from a trail by Hear My Train or go to the next trail up the road from the Hear My Train exit.

Protection

Bolted TR. Could probably lead on thin gear or solo as it is not too high. Walk around right to set up TR.

Photos

Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10b
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10b
Yup, for me, too, the crux is trying to pull over the top. Jan 31, 2015
Sdm1568
Ca
Sdm1568   Ca
I'm not sure if the slopey thing is off or on, I've heard it both ways. Either way there is quite a bit of chalk on it : ) The crux for me is pulling over the top, poor feet is the culprit. Oct 24, 2014
Is the little slopey ledge 2/3 the way up on the right "off" on this thing?

Also, where do you guys think the crux is? I thought it was trying to pull over the very top, couldn't find good feet, but fingers were locked. Oct 13, 2014
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
  5.10a
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
  5.10a
I give it a 5.10a because no matter how many times I climb it (as the boulder problem it should be), it doesn't get easier, always cussing at it and having to get my hands in it a couple of times before I can commit to the send up top... awesome climb! Oct 21, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10b
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10b
I fell into the same trap. "It's short, gotta be 10a." I led it onsight, but it made me work for just about every foot. I TR'ed it after and it was just as hard. So I'll throw my 2cents in and call it 10b. Aug 28, 2011
Jesse Davidson
san diego, ca
5.10b
Jesse Davidson   san diego, ca
5.10b
i thought it was easy until i tried to lead it... makes it a lot harder, for me anyway. 10b. Oct 22, 2008
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
Either 10a or 10b works for me. I originally got the 10a rating from a copy of your book. Thanks, it is historically interesting.

...reference Keith Brueckner's guide at: illusiondweller.blogspot.com Feb 2, 2007
G.McCay
Galloway, NJ
  5.10b
G.McCay   Galloway, NJ
  5.10b
Black Finger is 5.10b since I first stepped foot on Woodson back in '81. It's sequency nature and crux account for that.

Gary Nov 22, 2006