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South Face

5.6, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 14 votes
FA: unknown 1968
California > Northwest Calif… > Sue-meg SP > Ceremonial Rock > S & W Faces of Ceremo…

Description

Clean face with horizontal and diagonal cracks. Though most often toproped, this climb is easily protectable and is a fun lead on excellent rock.

Location

The South Face route is located just to the left of the summit stairs. Walk off.

Protection

Small to medium cams. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Last couple of moves to the nice 2-bolt anchor (easily reached from the stairway). Thin and thoughtful for beginning climbers.
[Hide Photo] Last couple of moves to the nice 2-bolt anchor (easily reached from the stairway). Thin and thoughtful for beginning climbers.
The south face as seen from the base of the climb.
[Hide Photo] The south face as seen from the base of the climb.
South Face (5.6) of Ceremonial Rock in Patricks Point State Park, Cali. Fun TR on cool, moist rock--- crazy that moss grows everywhere except the holds!
[Hide Photo] South Face (5.6) of Ceremonial Rock in Patricks Point State Park, Cali. Fun TR on cool, moist rock--- crazy that moss grows everywhere except the holds!
The South Face can be a great full moon climb on a clear night.
[Hide Photo] The South Face can be a great full moon climb on a clear night.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Floyd Hayes
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I led it onsight but it wasn't a picnic. The start was a bit wet and slick, and I nearly grounded when my foot buttered off after placing my first piece. The holds were dirty and often filled with leaves, so I had to clean the cracks before placing gear. Once I pulled out a big clump of grass! Climbing through the tree branches was unaesthetic. I thought it had some tricky moves for 5.6. Jul 30, 2013
Matthias Holladay
On the Road...Looking for a…
[Hide Comment] Hmmnn... another recollection: In the corridor which leads to the steps up Ceremonial, we did a repeat of an old route which ascends the face on the right as one is going up. It was mossy, but had good holds and an exciting finish. If I remember right, one can scramble off the top from the north side of this same formation... May 22, 2014
[Hide Comment] One of the bolt hangers is currently missing so bring a thick sling to back up to the post. Jan 3, 2015
[Hide Comment] Following on this route as a beginner was a lot of fun, and allowed plenty of chances for practicing technique. Lots of branches from adjacent tree to climb through in one section. Feb 9, 2015
Matthias Holladay
On the Road...Looking for a…
[Hide Comment] Leave the moss. All the hand / foot holds and cracks are fine for leading this fantastic route. Plus, it's cool the way it is. Thanks Apr 22, 2023
Ryder Dschida
McKinleyville, CA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Seconded Matthias's comment. Although the cracks may need cleaning each season...

I'm curious, Matthias, what did you use for pro on the upper slab? It always seemed pretty blank to me except that left "eyebrow"... Apr 22, 2023
Matthias Holladay
On the Road...Looking for a…
[Hide Comment] Ryder, what was cool was that we had walked by it many, many times, and never saw a route there.
When I bouldered the first few fun moves and finding a pin scar, I went around the back and rapped from the top to be sure there were no death blocks. Descending, it was so overgrown I felt bad that my boots were scraping off lots of the pretty greenery. Unlike today, one could barely see the rock, there was so much moss, etc., & it was obvious no one had climbed for years...
About the upper slab, I don't recall a runout. Apr 27, 2023
Ryder Dschida
McKinleyville, CA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Matthias,

Man, that's inspiring. I always felt the runout jitters going left (since I wanted to avoid the right blocks potentially having a "rapid unplanned disassembly" as SpaceX puts it today) and climbing eight feet or so above a "good enough" sideways nut in an eyebrow. Past climbers really had the sack! Apr 27, 2023