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Routes in Lower Cliffs, Upper Tier

Country Bumpkin T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fire Stone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Old Sea Hag S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Piss Ant, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Rocco's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Super Doo T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Super Slab 4 You T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
When Joey Comes Marching Home T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 87 total, 1/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux of Country Bumpkin is getting over the small overhang/flake and clipped to the next bolt. A fun, thin crux makes for an enjoyable climb. The photo at right is a bit misleading as the photo is very foreshortened. The overhang/flake is really a little over 1/2 way up.

Location

Country Bumpkin starts on the third tier from the anchors of Pappy Smear. The climb is really about 75' long. A bolt about 15' up off the deck is reached by friction climbing up the slab. Care must be taken on the easier ground all the way to the flake as you are high above your last gear. A long walk down west around the cliff and back can be done but there are anchors along the top of the cliff for rappel which is what most people do.

Protection

Three bolts are found on the climb but small and large cams add protection to some dicy spots. Getting clipped to the first bolt over the flake would be scary without gear under the flake and climbing up the last 5.9 face to the top without additional gear after the last bolt would be very bold indeed.

Photos

Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
Just was out here today and it looks like Country Bumpkin has a first pitch that goes up the right side of the Middle Tier. The obvious easier ground at the right follows a left leaning crack system and then up to the top. The pro is decent and the climbing not too hard at around 5.7 or so. Oct 29, 2006