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Routes in Paul's Backyard

Annie Get Your Gun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
De Ham Bone S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dress Rehearsal T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gun Rail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guns and Roses S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Haf & Haf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paul's Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sling-a-Ding-Ding T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slingshot Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Pete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted Shread T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (aka 'Bittersweet Feet') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Filthy Peter') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Platy Galore') S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Unknown 10b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Raleigh Collins, PT.
Page Views: 1,720 total · 12/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

This is the obvious finger crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Small cams.

Photos

saltlick
  5.6
saltlick  
  5.6
this climb has zero moves in the 5.9 range. Whilst internets-ing around trying to figure out which climbs we had stumbled onto the other day, I found this gem on SummitPost:

"Ted Shred 5.9, trad. This route is the closest to the parking area and easy to recognize by its continuous finger crack. Don't use abundant face holds around the crack if you want to preserve its 5.9 rating. I haven't climbed that route yet."

We climbed the Mountaineer's Route on Whitney the next day, and, finding no MP page for it and assuming that the above rating technique applied to all climbs in the Lone Pine vicinity, we rated it V 5.10 A4. This rating, of course, assumes that climbers will avoid the moderate snow couloir...

Ted Shred is a 5.7 face climb with many optional crack moves and ample traditional protection opportunities. Small pro to .5" Jun 8, 2011
Josh Cameron
California
  5.7+
Josh Cameron   California
  5.7+
Here, here! I rated this climb 5.7+. Climb the face but use the crack for pro. Aug 20, 2011
Mountain Matt
Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Mountain Matt   Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Looking at the wall, this crack just begs to be climbed. Good one for the grade.
You can do it with or without using the crack, really. Agreed, crack takes good pro. Sep 25, 2013
BAd
  5.8
BAd  
  5.8
I think 5.8 is fair, but the start is the crux. Once you're up a few feet, easy and fun. 5.7 ish. Jan 19, 2014

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