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Routes in The Burnt Penis

Burnt Penis, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,328 total, 10/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

A weird start, followed by easy climbing.

Protection

Draws.
Stacey K  
 
Warning! The top left anchor bolt is about to fall out! It wiggled a great deal while I pulled the rope through to rappel and I'm suprised it didn't pull out! I wouldn't climb this until it is tightened! Other than that, it's a really fun route. The start is to the right of the first bolt, then round the corner to your left and go straight up and over the bulge. May 22, 2017
Floyd Hayes
  5.6
Floyd Hayes  
  5.6
Easiest start is on the right side of the arete. Apr 3, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.7 X
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.7 X
There are four bolts on the route. The 1st protects the opening moves getting established above the overhang at the base. The 2nd, just below the roof. The run out above the roof to the 3rd bolt is not difficult, but a fall before clipping the 3rd bolt has groungfall potential. May 26, 2015
4 bolts.
Finding the LOLR at the start will challenge your route finding abilities. The 4th bolt is hard to see from the ground.
No mussy hooks. May 28, 2013
Mtnfly
El Segundo, Ca
  5.7
Mtnfly   El Segundo, Ca
  5.7
First bolt is very loose. Didn't notice any missing bolts. The is a big flake that will come off when someone pulls out on it, pulling down seems ok. Apr 12, 2013
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
The 3rd bolt is missing on this route. I led it and the bolt was sticking 1/2 way out and when my buddy cleaned it, he gave it a little pull with his fingers and it fell out. I put some yellow tape on the first bolt to warn others. Nov 8, 2010