Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,226 total · 28/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 22, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

25 Opinions

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Climb the left side of the North Face past 7 bolts. The 5.11c section can be avoided by moving to the arete at the third bolt, making it 5.11a.




Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Excellent rock quality considering that of nearby routes. Wonderful route!

[EDIT: I give it 3 stars for the 11c variation that stays right.] Oct 29, 2007
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I agree with Matt, the rock quality is quite good on this route, especially compared to Pirates on Horseback. The crux, however, seems contrived, since it feels unnatural to grab the arete past the third bolt. Maybe you avoid the crux by STEPPING left, not simply using the holds out left. I don't know. Perhaps I'm mincing moves. In any case, fun climbing all around. Mar 2, 2009
Phil Esra  
No idea what holds are on route based on the description and comments above. Tried to find an 11c line, but all sequences seemed easier or harder than that. Probably a fun 5.10ish route if you just use the arĂȘte whenever you want. Fun easy edges on the second half of the route. Mar 10, 2014
Agree with the comments about rock quality. The true crux, as best I could discern, involves moving right across thin crimps and little feet to a position directly below the 4th bolt where you then pull hard and use some fancy footwork to surmount the bulge out of reach of the arete. The crux sequence is actually quite fun and technical, and not all that contrived once you make the earlier decision to head that way rather than bailing left to the arete. The upper face is cruiser climbing on great holds and good rock. Mar 7, 2016
Fernando Cal
Fernando Cal   CA, UT
Stayed to the left, fun technical climbing with a fun start. The views are much better on this side than on the 5.7 arete. Apr 24, 2017
Eugenel Espiritu
Eugenel Espiritu   PA
The route is nice but a squeeze job. The arete is there within grabbing range of each bolt, but I'm not supposed to use it. 11c if you dont use the arete; someone without knowing this specific beta before hand, mid 10s. May 13, 2018