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Routes in Southwest Face

Billiard Room T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Polski Wyrob S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet'n Low T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trick Shot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad
FA: Ed Barry, Tom Herbert, 1985.
Page Views: 705 total, 5/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 22, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This follows a left-facing corner and crack, about center of this face.

Protection

Pro to 2.5.

Photos

Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
Supertopo says, "it's best to just scramble over right to the bolted anchor of Polski Wyrob". Like an idiot, after a quick glance at the topo, I thought this meant to take the right side of crack where it splits in a Y, then a short bit of face would take me to the chains.

Big mistake. After the Y,the crack becomes flared, and it is not really possible to get pro. I was well above my last good gear, a #1 Camalot, and was really surprised that the route would go this way. I think I was able to get 2 good lobes in on either a Yellow or Green Alien, but I didn't have that much confidence in the piece if I had fallen. I'll just say that finishing up was a combination of steepish laybacking and then face climbing, felt pretty heady, and that going LEFT at the Y would have been pretty cruiser. Woops. Jun 26, 2012