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Routes in Aguaworld

Aqua Velvet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Burn Tough S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crash Test Dummies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
February Summer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Four Twenty T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mashed Potatoes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pile of BS (Bat Shit) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipe Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Retro'd Hardman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scavenger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smoke ‘'Em if You Got '‘Em T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snatch, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
T.H.C S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Randy Kieliszewski and John Ray, 1996
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Oct 21, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

The initial dihedral doesn't require much strength, just good technique and a whole lot of head. The runout could easily turn into a potential groundfall situation if you pass ANY protection opportunities. It is slopier than it first appears, and the crack you think you can see isn't there at all. Traverse to the crack in the headwall to the right and let the big pulls begin. Place pro before attempting to pull over the lip because blowing the crux here would be bad without it. Have fun figuring out the sequence to get over the lip, as the feet are tricky and slopers abound. This is a 5.10a crux, but only if you figure it out; otherwise, expect some mumbling about bags of sand. Once above the headwall, the climbing eases up to around 5.7, providing a nice cool down as you approach the anchors.

Location

Aim for the small dihedral that ends just before reaching the headwall above. You can see the anchor chains on the east-facing bulge at the top of the wall.

Protection

Standard trad rack, with nothing larger than a gold camalot needed. Don't pass up any protection opportunities at the start, and once in the dihedral, look to the left for a hidden placement option (use a long runner here). Bring long runners to reduce rope drag at the traverse from the top of the dihedral to the crack in the headwall. 2 chain anchor at the top.

Photos

tenesmus  
 
No offense to anyone, but this climb is a piece of crap. Jul 24, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.10c R
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10c R
About as scary a lead as I have ever attempted. I passed the one placement that I shouldn't have and my head thanked me as I let my second take the lead beyond the ledge. As Ryan said, "Do not pass up a placement". If you do not find the sequence at the lip excpect a hard 10 move to pop the lip. Very fun route with some cool moves. Oct 23, 2006