Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,707 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mark Abbott on Oct 20, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

This climb offers some creative crack climbing, some aesthetic dike hiking, some moderate slab climbing, and a bit of steep face. The protection on some of the slab and face could be a little exciting.

Note that the pitches I describe here don't jibe with those of Kerry '97. I think he must have conflated two distinct ways of breaking the route into pitches.

P1. Straight up the crack, which varies in width. Then jog right at the top via some face moves, and belay just below a second, flared crack. The jog right is generally considered the crux, about 5.9-.

P2. Diagonal up left though some plates and follow a dike. Eventually pass a two-bolt anchor (from another route) and, wherever it feels right, head up poorly protected but moderate slab. Belay at a large but hidden crack. Around 5.6.

P3. Climb up from the crack, following a line of smallish horns as the angle steepens. After the crack ends, the horns are your only protection for a while. Clip an old bolt and pull onto some lower angle rock. Angle right a bit to the top. Belay at the two-bolt anchor from another route, or roll your own. About 5.7 or 5.8.

Just in case you're wondering: I have it on good authority ;) that a 60m rope will NOT reach from the two-bolt anchor midway on P2 to the the two-bolt anchor at the top.

Location

The start is at the right side of the main face. It's NOT the big obvious chimney/crack at the mid-left.

The approach trail will lead you to the rock at the bottom right edge of this face. Although the trail continues on up and right, you need at this point to traverse straight left along the base of the rock. This traverse is sort-of a trail, and sort-of a ledge. Stop below a big crack in a corner (see photo), where you would otherwise have to angle down quite a bit to continue going left. Don't make the mistake of stopping too soon, at some crappy weakness in the rock (hope I'm not insulting someone's route!).

The crack for the second belay is invisible from on the route below it, so it is good to memorize roughly where it is, either from photos or on the approach.

One descent is to traverse southeast along the top of the dome (with a little scrambling involved) until it is straightforward to walk down scree to the south. Then wander back to the west face, possibly dropping down to the trail to Hideout Wall, if you can find it. This descent will take you right past the Crackathon Area.

There is a bolted route with 2-bolt anchors running directly up the west face that should provide a rappel descent, especially in a pinch, although I haven't tried it and don't recall if the anchors are rigged for rappelling.

Protection

I suggest a "standard rack" plus a couple of large cams like a #4 Camalot or a #4 Friend (for the first half of P1) and extra slings, preferably narrow (for the horns on P3).

The only fixed gear traditionally part of the route is the old bolt on P3, but obviously you can take advantage of the two-bolt anchor midway up P2, and the two-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

erik kapec
prescott, az
erik kapec   prescott, az
our group had the weekend rock book, and the print out of this description. Both were different and following this one was a little confusing once you get up and see bolts. Following the weekend rock was better, for one it split up the run-out chickenheads and climbs for me and my partner. This rope drag could be pretty bad if you link p2/3 like this description says. But overall awesome climb and the webbing for the raps has been replaced as of this week. Mar 20, 2010
Don Stump
Sierra Vista, AZ
Don Stump   Sierra Vista, AZ
I left my hat and sunglasses at the base of this climb, just leave them there. I'll get back to them eventually. Jan 6, 2014
This is a fun climb. Some of the beta is a bit different from Weekend Rock, so I posted an updated topo here:

toofasttopos.com/free/warpa…

There are several more good routes on this wall that I will detail as I have time. Jan 9, 2016
marcin ksok
Flagstaff, AZ
 
marcin ksok   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Directions are a bit off. go east at fence corner not west. Keeping fence on your left. Once in the drainage follow its right leg through fallen trees to the end. You will find a cairn over some rocks at end of drainage.on route we never found a 2 bolt anchor but found 2 separate bolts along the dike. Went up at second bolt to the crack above. Jan 7, 2017
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
 
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
 
2nd Rap station is on a dyke, below and Right of 2-bolt anchor for slab route Right of Warpath.
The TooFastTopo only shows the unknown slab route anchor in this area and mistakes this for the 2nd Rap station. Jan 15, 2017