Avg: 2.7 from 22 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||3,498 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Abbott on Oct 20, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis climb offers some creative crack climbing, some aesthetic dike hiking, some moderate slab climbing, and a bit of steep face. The protection on some of the slab and face could be a little exciting.
Note that the pitches I describe here don't jibe with those of Kerry '97. I think he must have conflated two distinct ways of breaking the route into pitches.
P1. Straight up the crack, which varies in width. Then jog right at the top via some face moves, and belay just below a second, flared crack. The jog right is generally considered the crux, about 5.9-.
P2. Diagonal up left though some plates and follow a dike. Eventually pass a two-bolt anchor (from another route) and, wherever it feels right, head up poorly protected but moderate slab. Belay at a large but hidden crack. Around 5.6.
P3. Climb up from the crack, following a line of smallish horns as the angle steepens. After the crack ends, the horns are your only protection for a while. Clip an old bolt and pull onto some lower angle rock. Angle right a bit to the top. Belay at the two-bolt anchor from another route, or roll your own. About 5.7 or 5.8.
Just in case you're wondering: I have it on good authority ;) that a 60m rope will NOT reach from the two-bolt anchor midway on P2 to the the two-bolt anchor at the top.
LocationThe start is at the right side of the main face. It's NOT the big obvious chimney/crack at the mid-left.
The approach trail will lead you to the rock at the bottom right edge of this face. Although the trail continues on up and right, you need at this point to traverse straight left along the base of the rock. This traverse is sort-of a trail, and sort-of a ledge. Stop below a big crack in a corner (see photo), where you would otherwise have to angle down quite a bit to continue going left. Don't make the mistake of stopping too soon, at some crappy weakness in the rock (hope I'm not insulting someone's route!).
The crack for the second belay is invisible from on the route below it, so it is good to memorize roughly where it is, either from photos or on the approach.
One descent is to traverse southeast along the top of the dome (with a little scrambling involved) until it is straightforward to walk down scree to the south. Then wander back to the west face, possibly dropping down to the trail to Hideout Wall, if you can find it. This descent will take you right past the Crackathon Area.
There is a bolted route with 2-bolt anchors running directly up the west face that should provide a rappel descent, especially in a pinch, although I haven't tried it and don't recall if the anchors are rigged for rappelling.
ProtectionI suggest a "standard rack" plus a couple of large cams like a #4 Camalot or a #4 Friend (for the first half of P1) and extra slings, preferably narrow (for the horns on P3).
The only fixed gear traditionally part of the route is the old bolt on P3, but obviously you can take advantage of the two-bolt anchor midway up P2, and the two-bolt anchor at the top.