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The Sting

5.13c, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Greg Parker
S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Blue Sky > Pheromone Wall

Description

This route follows the incredible black streak to the right of Flight of the Bumblebee. Climb decent holds up to the 2nd bolt, which is difficult to clip, and then tackle the v9-ish crux on tiny pockets, crimps and one very strenuous undercling. After that you have a slight rest followed by a v4 redpoint crux, requiring accuracy to a 3-finger pocket off of some crimpy sidepulls. After all of that, enjoy great 5.9 climbing for another 30 feet or so.
The line is 4 stars, but I only gave it 3 because the crux is such an ass-kicker.

Protection

9 bolts, open cold shut anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me finishing up the redpoint crux on The Sting in 1997 (note the Sportiva Mythos and tight pants!!). This was taken on the day I got the FA.
[Hide Photo] Me finishing up the redpoint crux on The Sting in 1997 (note the Sportiva Mythos and tight pants!!). This was taken on the day I got the FA.
The hardest move on the Sting (actually getting into position to do this move is what's hard).
[Hide Photo] The hardest move on the Sting (actually getting into position to do this move is what's hard).
Ugghh. The crux of the Sting
[Hide Photo] Ugghh. The crux of the Sting
Me pulling into the crux of The Sting.
[Hide Photo] Me pulling into the crux of The Sting.
Flight and The Sting, 5.13a and 5.13c consecutively and continuously. The (shorter) black slab on the left side of the photo is Dragonfly 5.9+
[Hide Photo] Flight and The Sting, 5.13a and 5.13c consecutively and continuously. The (shorter) black slab on the left side of the photo is Dragonfly 5.9+
lee envisioning all that's involved, lee has not sent. <br>
just an image....
[Hide Photo] lee envisioning all that's involved, lee has not sent. just an image....
Lee finding out the real size of that crimp<br>
[Hide Photo] Lee finding out the real size of that crimp

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh Dreher
Poulsbo, WA
[Hide Comment] Greg,
I've been thinking about getting on The Sting. Worth it? Mar 20, 2007
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
  5.13c
[Hide Comment] Of course it's worth it! It needs a 2nd ascent. It's been sitting there, fairly dormant, for ten years (I did it in 1997)!
McNabb has the beta. It's funny, I was just wondering if you were considering getting on it. I'd be so psyched to see someone do it. Definitely let me know if you get on it! Mar 21, 2007
Josh Dreher
Poulsbo, WA
[Hide Comment] Hey Greg,
Are you coming to town anytime soon? I got on the Sting one day a few months ago with Jason and Lee. Did all the moves but it felt hard for sure. Jason and Lee were both able to find better sequences on it than me. I found getting into the undercling wasn't that bad but thought the throw to the edge was real tough. Probably going to get on it again when the temps go down. Aug 20, 2007
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
  5.13c
[Hide Comment] Hey Josh. Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be coming back to town this season. I wish I was there right now, but I need to actually try to finish grad school...
Grabbing the undercling wasn't too bad, but getting stood up was the hard part for me. Once I was all the way stood up and had the undercling locked at my waist, I could just deadpoint to the edge. Maybe it's a difference in height. But, I remember just struggling getting fully stood up.
Keep me updated if you get on it. I love hearing any and all spray (especially if it's about one of my routes). Aug 25, 2007
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
  5.13c
[Hide Comment] The Sting has a 2nd ascent! Nice work Mr. Hirsch. Oct 3, 2011
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
  5.13c
[Hide Comment] The Sting has a 3rd ascent! Nice work Mr. Terveen. Oct 30, 2011